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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 4:06 pm 
BoTM Winner / Gold Trader / Rider
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 2:21 pm
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Location: The Flatlands
Now it is not going to be used to jump bomb holes etc etc :wink: , but what are the views on getting it repaired:

:arrow: Safely
:arrow: Cost effectively
:arrow: aesthetically pleasing to the eye (i.e not a big ugly lump).

Now I know there are many threads out there regarding peoples cracked "this", "that" and "the other", but I would appreciate some help on my specific problem, because I want the bike to survive in 1 piece if possible.

Cheers...Nick

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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 4:15 pm 
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Location: Oh Canada!
yes, it's quite common for RM Stratos, Cirrus and Experience to have this failure and rewelded since it was 7000 series alum and continued to be used. My Experience had that area repaired by the prev owner years ago and he, as well as I since getting it have been riding it fairly regularly without further issues.


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 5:05 pm 
BoTM Winner / Gold Trader / Rider
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Location: The Flatlands
Frank,

That is kind of good news, whenever you get a chance, could you post up a pic of the repair on yours for reference?

p.s - this thread answers your question in your FS thread about my Stratos.

just need to find someone in the UK that can do it. Anyone recommend anyone that can do this and a rough estimate of cost?

Cheers...Nick


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Sure, I'll snap some pics for you. Basically it'll look like a weld on top of a weld. Isn't ugly, and if done right by a good welder, it won't be too obvious, but it will be noticeable if you look for it. From what I've been told, the weld once set will be stronger than the original tubing so it'll last.

Are/were you running the correct seatpost size with enough insertion into the frame?

Only issue I see is the pearl paint/clearcoat on that year Stratos. It'll be wrecked in that area from the repair. :(

My Experience is raw alum finish, so the repair on the Experience was a no brainer.


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 8:42 pm 
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This is just an idea and I wouldn't do it without more input from more experienced members.

Because the crack isn't that advanced down the tube, couldn't you drill a small hole below the crack to stop it spreading? And run a longer seatpost way below the minimum insertion mark to distribute the load more evenly along the seattube.


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 9:42 pm 
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i know of another RM Experience owner that has the collar repaired and rode it that way. also this one listed here for sale a while back was also repaired. a Nimbus was also listed in the same thread which i think has sadly gone far beyond being repaired???

strangely, what I'm noticing right now, and i'm going to confirm when i get home on mine, is that it seems to always be the non-drive side the failure is on. :?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=214677

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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 8:08 am 
retrobike rider
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I'm no expert, but I think there are a few flaws in the thinking.
I don't thin any amount of post extension in the frame will help.
First it'll be butted (i think these where) so it's no mans land down there or it will not have been reamed any way.
It us probably over tensioning of the binder that has pulled the Alu a bit and happens to be a weak ask spot in the welding position.

Spreading would happen when you open and close the binder as it's bending that bit a little.


theproudhighway wrote:
This is just an idea and I wouldn't do it without more input from more experienced members.

Because the crack isn't that advanced down the tube, couldn't you drill a small hole below the crack to stop it spreading? And run a longer seatpost way below the minimum insertion mark to distribute the load more evenly along the seattube.


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 11:35 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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i would go for a repair, in that area the worst case is the tab will snap off when riding


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 2:20 pm 
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Location: Herts UK
FluffyChicken wrote:
I'm no expert, but I think there are a few flaws in the thinking.
I don't thin any amount of post extension in the frame will help.

It is probably over tensioning of the binder that has pulled the Alu a bit and happens to be a weak spot in the welding position.


no expert either but that is my take on it.


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Confirmed that repair was done on non-drive side as well on my frame. :?


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