Setting up cantilever brakes

widowmaker

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:facepalm: :oops: :facepalm: :oops:

I have fitted a set of Shimano Cantilever brakes to the Old Raleigh Kalahari :D

I have a problem, one of the brakes locks onto the rim ok, but does not release. I seem to remember this on my first bike with them. Is this just something typical with these brakes or is it something i have done wrong.

I know that V's would be easier to set up, but this bike is just for zipping around with the kids :cool:

Apologies if this has been covered, and any links greatly appreciated.

Anyone
 
Check your spring tension and adjust as necessary, and look for anywhere the brake shoe may be catching, sometimes the tyre can stop them returning back depending on the rim profile and tyre.
 
If the brake blocks are new, then it's what Jussa said and is most likely the block catching on the tyre. If the blocks are used, take a look at the face of the block, as there may be a proud lip, where the block has not been adjusted properly. This can catch on the edge of the rim and produce the same effect.

I have just worked on two bikes with canti's, and it reminded me why we all pounced on V's when they came into the shops.
 
Chopper1192":irxhecq1 said:
Never had a problem setting up cantis. I dunno why people fuss and fret over the prospect of setting them up.

Thanks for the help, its possible to pick up years of set up experience in a few minutes - good old Retrobike

I am not fussing and fretting, just want to get the best possible set up :D

One question though :oops: - on the brake boos on the forks (and rear) there are 3 holes for the spring to fit into, which one should you use. I always assumed the one which gave the greatest tension ??
 
I looked at this the other day in one of my builds, from "factory" (or at least the guy at the bike shop where assembled) marin were "middle" and I have always replaced in same as never needed extra tension.

edit, one thing to check is the plate that is in the one with the micro adjusting screw hasn't shifted or ridden over the screw as it then rotates and the spring has nothing to push against, don't ask me how I know............
 
widowmaker":229bgdyt said:
Chopper1192":229bgdyt said:
Never had a problem setting up cantis. I dunno why people fuss and fret over the prospect of setting them up.

Thanks for the help, its possible to pick up years of set up experience in a few minutes - good old Retrobike

I am not fussing and fretting, just want to get the best possible set up :D

One question though :oops: - on the brake boos on the forks (and rear) there are 3 holes for the spring to fit into, which one should you use. I always assumed the one which gave the greatest tension ??
I start on the middle hole as a datum, but if the tension screw doesn't have enough range I use a different hole as apprpriate to get the spring tension required.

Set up on side, adjust. Set up and tension the other aide to match, adjust the brake block positioning, then fit the cable and set the cable adjustmet. I usually set the cable adjusters 5 full turns in, set the cable to pull the blocks right against the rim, then wind the adjuster back out as far as it'll go,
And that's usually perfect. Simples.

Biggest problem I'm seeing now is nacked springs on 30 year old cantis giving wildly differig tensions across the same set of brakes. Short of cannibalising the springs from a cheapo set of new cantis I don't know what the answer is.
 
Chopper1192":cl8353cu said:
widowmaker":cl8353cu said:
Chopper1192":cl8353cu said:
Never had a problem setting up cantis. I dunno why people fuss and fret over the prospect of setting them up.

Thanks for the help, its possible to pick up years of set up experience in a few minutes - good old Retrobike

I am not fussing and fretting, just want to get the best possible set up :D

One question though :oops: - on the brake boos on the forks (and rear) there are 3 holes for the spring to fit into, which one should you use. I always assumed the one which gave the greatest tension ??
I start on the middle hole as a datum, but if the tension screw doesn't have enough range I use a different hole as apprpriate to get the spring tension required.

Set up on side, adjust. Set up and tension the other aide to match, adjust the brake block positioning, then fit the cable and set the cable adjustmet. I usually set the cable adjusters 5 full turns in, set the cable to pull the blocks right against the rim, then wind the adjuster back out as far as it'll go,
And that's usually perfect. Simples.

Biggest problem I'm seeing now is nacked springs on 30 year old cantis giving wildly differig tensions across the same set of brakes. Short of cannibalising the springs from a cheapo set of new cantis I don't know what the answer is.

My co-worker just bought some new Dia Compe cantilever springs off of the web. They were fatter than the stock springs, but since he shattered the plastic housing they ended up working better than the stock ones. Dunno if you can get new ones for Shimano.
 
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