Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:58 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ

Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:15 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 7:13 pm
Posts: 2637
Location: The Cock Inn, Tillett, Herts
I've tried tubeless and its a big improvement over tubes. Nevertheless, while it eliminated pinch flats it didn't entirely eliminate penetration punctures and if you have a problem trail side and lose the seal betwixt rim and bead then you're pretty bolloxed. On the plus side its a relative lightweight option if you do it with a proper tubeless rim, so if you're interested in performance its the best compromise.

But if you're interested in getting where you're going with relentless reliability then the slime tubes are worth the extra rotating mass. I do 8-9000 miles a year and have discovered that faffing about with tubeless at the roadside gets you quite literally nowhere, which isn't very helpful if you're late for work.

So it depends on your budget and priorities.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:24 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:30 am
Posts: 14
Location: yeovil
Always makes me wonder why people still get punctures?

Slime tubes are brilliant and the extra weight is only a problem if your not that fit!

The weight saving is long forgotten about when changing a muddy tube.

I run tubeless now with Stans and its brilliant, easy to seat once you have experience, i do it easily with a track pump.

If you do not have UST rims and tyres just get a couple of slime tubes and keep riding!

As mentioned before, its amazing how many thorns you will remove when next cleaning the bike, just remove them, spin the wheel and it all seals up!

Its only messy if you rip a tube/tyre.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:44 am 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:33 pm
Posts: 11896
Location: The Home Of Mountain Biking, And All Great Things.
I'm thorny. Thorny, thorny, thorny!

Good advice. When you use the gunk in your car tyres it usually directs you not to drive at more than 40 or whatever once you have it in, and only to a place of repair. Makes a total mess and the tire guys don't like it one bit. I used some on a sports bike a few years back and totally forgot I had put it in for several hundred miles of riding.

I could not believe the state of the rims on an otherwise excellent set of XT UST wheels I acquired recently to rebuild a set with knackered hubs. They looked like they had been run with no tires on them, must have had the pressure down incredibly low.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:05 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 11:15 am
Posts: 58
Location: The Central Midlands
Just to report that I purchased and fitted a pair of presta Dr Sludge tubes, also whilst rummaging in the attic I came across another couple of sets of MTB tyres, namely Schwalbe Land Cruiser which I think came from an abandoned work bikeshed bike a few years ago, anyway they claim to have puncture protection but are pretty weighty. So tyres and tubes are quite a bit heavier than expected, initial inflation (using a track pump) and sorting out pressures is trickier because of the gloop affecting the valve operation. Once riding they definitely take more zap to get up to speed. At ride speed all is good & I am impressed how quiet these tyres are, yet they grip very well on tracks/dry'ish mud. Not any slower ride-wise as my av speed was higher than before with this combo :D I think I may reduce tyre pressures a bit next time because despite all the above positives the ride was quite harsh and wooden feeling. I was running both tyres at 50psi so I reckon dropping to 40psi or so should do the trick, any advice on this appreciated! I do think this tube/tyre combination should be good for the canal towpaths which is where I want to explore this year.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:49 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:37 pm
Posts: 2036
Yep, the sludge takes more effort to get up to speed - and you're carrying more weight...
But I really don't care - training-wise, it's doing me good :)

And my last towpath excursion was at 40psi - which seemed about right :)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:22 pm 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 7:11 pm
Posts: 8520
Location: Go ask Alice...
Slime is fine if you want to stop punctures. It does what it says on the tin.
But if you want the best ride quality possible, you need tubeless. Puncture resistance is only part of the story.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:04 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 2944
Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Suburbanreuben speaks the truth.......

Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3

All times are UTC [ DST ]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Double-E F, Elev12k, Retro junkie, ultrazenith and 75 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group