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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:41 pm 
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I'm in a bit of a fix.

It started when I decided to change the rear cassette on my Dynatech.
Had been looking for a nice light weight 7 speed with nice ratio's, and eventually found a lovely IG Shimano one.
I removed the old cassette and decided to service the rear hub - XT M732.

The bike rides nicely, but the rear wheel was making slight vibratory grinding noise - and as were the cranks BUT I didn't notice the cranks at first as I assumed it was the rear hub.

So I bought a new STX 7 speed freehub body, disassembled the rear hub, cleaned it all out, cleaned out the bearings and cups, put new grease, fitted the new freehub body (old one was shafted- rough as a Ninja, and knackered) I fitted the freehub body - nice n smooth - but there was still a slight vibration and grind - much smoother than before and not noticeable when cycling - but still there.

I checked again very carefully and saw that the bearing cups have been pitted, hence the noise. So my hub is knackered!

So a problem, what do I do?

I thought I'd buy a new identical hub, unlace my rear wheel, then lace the new hub onto the Mavic 231 CD rim.

Looking on retrobike I managed to source and buy a NOS XT M732 rear hub 135mm 32h.

Question is;
a) Is it possible to do this? unlace a wheel then use the same rim with another hub?
b) Is this a wise thing to do?
It's obvious my hub is knackered and I may as well change it.
The only other alternative would be a complete new wheel - but I'd have to replace BOTH wheels and costs would sky rocket (as I have expensive tastes! :)

What should I do? Or have I the right idea?


The problems persisted - I noticed the cranks, when turning made a rough noise - SHIT I thought.

So took the cranks and rings off, and cleaned them, then turned the BB spindles - and to my disgust they turned with a noise like a grindstone - rough!
So I got hold of the Mavic BB tool, and undid the BB (a Mavic Fixie with 122.5mm (or thereabouts) spindle)

So now I need a new Bottom Bracket. I really like the Mavic, but a Royce, Phil or Shimano UN90/91 type would also do.
My Pace 48T/36T/Shimano 24T rings are ok, outer 48T seems a bit worn.
Crank arms are XT M730 170mm long, not bad, not perfect though - and herein lies my second Question;

Should I;
a) keep the rings and cranks, and procure a new 122.5mm BB?
b) keep the cranks, and change the outer large Ring to a new or less worn one - (does my ring HAVE to be a 48T? or can I attach a 46 T if I find a decent one?)
c) just look for a new Crank set/Rings entirely and a BB to suit?

Again the 3rd option seems expensive. But I'm asking here as someone may be able to give me some rational and wise advice...

Thanks guys!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:48 pm 
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You've only got one pitted race, because the other one got replaced when you replaced the freehub body. If you don't notice it when riding I'd be inclined to not worry about it, but otherwise no, there's no problem putting an old rim onto a new hub.

New Shimano UNxx BB, sorted. 46t ring will go on fine, what counts is that you get one with a 110mm bolt circle diameter (and five holes, obviously).


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:10 am 
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Thanks man, I think I will do what you suggested.
I've bought a new hub now so will eventually relace the 231CD rim with the new hub and new DB spokes.
(I wonder if un-lacing costs a lot at a LBS??)

And I am looking to get some new rings and BB

Can anyone tell me about this BB?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-NIB-Stron ... 2c6d871268

Stronglight ?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:59 am 
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You could unlace the wheel yourself, it's a lot easier than lacing it up :) Since you're getting new spokes, the quick and dirty way is to cut the old ones out.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:11 am 
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MikeD wrote:
You could unlace the wheel yourself, it's a lot easier than lacing it up :) Since you're getting new spokes, the quick and dirty way is to cut the old ones out.



:) I'm clumsy! I might damage something!! But.... what do i cut the spokes with??

And a Question, I have been looking at some Cook bros cranks - what's difference between E type and any other type? And are they any good? They sure look good - but an upgrade over the XT M730's?

And how are these? (Polished rather than blue)

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=249497


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:18 am 
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Park cable cutters will go through spokes like cheese.

That BB is meant for frames with damaged threads


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:21 am 
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cce wrote:
Park cable cutters will go through spokes like cheese.

That BB is meant for frames with damaged threads


Thanks man

And the cook bros?
I guess this is an E Type

? Decent enough ? compared to the M730?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:25 am 
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You can use Park cable cutters to cut spokes until you blunt them by not using them as they were designed to be used. Personally I use a big old set of bolt cutters. If you want to re-use the rim it's not a bad idea to unwind the nipples a bit first to release some tension.

Personally, unless you have a strong desire to have something unusual hidden inside your BB shell, a boring UN26 will work better and cost hardly anything.


Last edited by walleater on Mon Apr 15, 2013 4:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 4:18 am 
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Did you check the braking surface of the rim before you use it for what is basically a new wheel? I would be tempted to replace it myself.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:46 pm 
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highlandsflyer wrote:
Did you check the braking surface of the rim before you use it for what is basically a new wheel? I would be tempted to replace it myself.



The rims are in lovely condition, not much wear at all with loads of life left.
So I think I will keep them, and will take my time changing the hubs - in fact, I might source a new 231CD rim !

I have just bought the Cook Bros E cranks - these will replace the XT M730.


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