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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:38 pm 
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loctite the bearing race so you don't need a lock nut (seriously) LOL


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 4:02 pm 
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i've been an idiot and i've edited my question. i realized that i can't have a threaded steerer shorter than the height of the lock nut to the point it's not sufficiently threaded onto the steerer. :facepalm: i was looking at calculations by numbers on paper as opposed to looking at the real life condition. :oops:

an XTR m901 lock nut is about 7.5mm in height and the CK 2nut is just under 10mm. but regardless of the height, i'll be only able to thread the same amount of steerer into each, so in the end i don't think one is safer than the other regardless of how much more above top of the nut is above the steerer.

so how much of the lock nut should be threaded to the steerer to be safe and avoid stripping any threads… 3, 4, 5mm???


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:10 pm 
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okay here's an example.

this is a Race Face Real Seal headset with an integrated top race/lock nut with a clamp system. I have about 12mm threaded down over the steerer with roughly 4mm of overage. There's a bolt that clamps and locks the race/lock nut in place and I think I should be safe with this.

Thought?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:02 pm 
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RockiMtn wrote:
okay here's an example.

this is a Race Face Real Seal headset with an integrated top race/lock nut with a clamp system. I have about 12mm threaded down over the steerer with roughly 4mm of overage. There's a bolt that clamps and locks the race/lock nut in place and I think I should be safe with this.

Thought?


It still looks like a lot of exposed thread to me. But I guess it really depends on where the bolt clamps relative to the steerer tube. If it's pinching too high, I'd be worried about crimping the steerer tube. If it's a few mm below the top of the steerer, I'd be less worried.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:40 pm 
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i think in this case the pinch bolt sits below the top of the steerer. and i'm not torquing this down heavy, just enough that the race/lock nut isn't going to move under a bit of force from a wrench. the hex key needed is fairly small so i won't/can't be too heavy handed anyway.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:50 pm 
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according to this (page 8 ) the steerer tube should have an adjustment gap of approx 2mm between the top of the steerer and lip of the lockring:

http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/Chapter12.pdf


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:54 pm 
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If that was a Mavic and the bolt clamp was below the top (I know slightly different design) then it would be correctly fitted. Given the worst that would realistically happen is it comes loose then go for it.

As for crimping the steer you'd damage the headset first I would have thought.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:42 pm 
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FluffyChicken wrote:
As for crimping the steer you'd damage the headset first I would have thought.


yeah steel vs aluminum, i think you're right.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:32 pm 
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RockiMtn wrote:
FluffyChicken wrote:
As for crimping the steer you'd damage the headset first I would have thought.


yeah steel vs aluminum, i think you're right.


:facepalm: Brainfart. Of course. The bolt on the lock ring would likely strip before harming the steerer tube. Forgot to think about materials first :oops:

If the sutherland manual says a minimum of a 2mm gap (I looked through it quick, but didn't see it), and you have a 4mm gap with sufficient threads on the lock-ring, you sound golden.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:55 pm 
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it's on page 8, very small print under the headset illustration. very easy to miss. :P


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