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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:27 pm 
Geoff Capes
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:33 pm
Posts: 956
Location: On my laptop somewhere..
I have these lurking in a box..They came off a frame that was split for it's bits.
Image

1 1/8th, 134mm steerer length.

The dials on the stanchions move freely. They also compress and rebound when leaned on.
The brace is cracked arond the brake boss eyelet and needs replacing. Minor, tiny dings on right hand stanchion-almost imperceptible to finger touch and less than a mm in size..

What else do I need to look for to see if they are ok?

Spec wise they're good for early Kleins?
Any advice or info on these would be appreciated.

Will sell them once I have been ''educated''


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:42 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
Posts: 16747
Location: Yorkshire, England
1992 MAG20 model.

Crown is not the usual style, possibly replaced or a later MAG20 model (not sure) once they had figured out how to stop them cracking.
If you have the pump, then pump them up to 40PSI and see if it stays in there.

Manuals/details are in the Archive.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:45 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:03 pm
Posts: 11796
Location: Returning
I quite like these forks , they work well on the right bike


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:10 pm 
Geoff Capes
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:33 pm
Posts: 956
Location: On my laptop somewhere..
FluffyChicken wrote:
1992 MAG20 model.

Crown is not the usual style, possibly replaced or a later MAG20 model (not sure) once they had figured out how to stop them cracking.
If you have the pump, then pump them up to 40PSI and see if it stays in there.

Manuals/details are in the Archive.


Cheers,
Haven't got a pump :( will suss this with LBS or summat.

I think they're a good fork. Top drawer stuff BITD. But maintenance/faff heavy for me -i.e I need a pump just to check the things hold air etc..


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:22 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
Posts: 16747
Location: Yorkshire, England
They are sat in oil so the innards tend to survive quite well unless mud has managed to get past both seals.
You need air, as that is the spring. Better than having to fish elastomer crumble out or try loads of springs to get the correct spring rate ;)

A thin ball pump valve, preferable with no sharp edges and preferably just a hole at the end. (few quid in Teco I hear) and screw/clamp into the end a pump and and put some air in (lube the needle)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:36 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:03 pm
Posts: 11796
Location: Returning
The bit that blows up the bairns fitbaw is what you need and only 40 psi and no more
And as fluffy Ben says , work forever and fixable if they fail un like elastomer forks


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:35 am 
Geoff Capes
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:33 pm
Posts: 956
Location: On my laptop somewhere..
Thanks guys. I will have a tinker, see what occurs and report back..


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