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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:37 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:02 pm
Posts: 304
Location: Lancashire
saulus wrote:
Bullpup wrote:
What do you use to keep the shine - Wax if so which one please?


I've gone for bare naked ally - No lacquer as it always ends up getting stuff under it and eventually looking looking naff so why bother IMO. I just give it a quick buffing with polish when it gets a little jaded looking..30 mins and it looks mint again and I stop sweatin' :lol: .

I have heard that 'Peek' is a better alternative to Autosol..I may get some.

I need to try Autosol and/or Peek, as I have a P7 that will need refurbishing and that's nickel plated steel. The Mothers is only for Aluminium. The instructions state that if you don't see any black residue when applying the stuff, stop because it's not aluminium.
Has anyone done tests on the effectiveness of Peek Vs Autosol on steel and Peek vs Autosol vs Mothers on aluminium. It would be interesting to see what the difference is, but I don't fancy having to polish 5 frames to get the result!!!!!! :roll: :roll: :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:56 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:24 am
Posts: 7562
Location: Manchester
Any ideas why you can only use the Mothers on aluminium?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 12:03 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:03 am
Posts: 18212
Location: Sunny Glasgow
feetabix wrote:
........with blisters and horribly blackened hands I may add!........



Sturgeons gloves :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:15 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:02 pm
Posts: 304
Location: Lancashire
Rampage wrote:
Any ideas why you can only use the Mothers on aluminium?

Ahh, re-read the destructions again and it suggests that it can be used on metals other than Alu, but you need to test the metal to see.

Directions:
1. Apply a small amount of polish to a terry cloth towel.
2. Rub polish onto metal surface until black residue appears.
3. Buff off residue with a clean terry cloth or microfibre towel prior to polish drying.
4. Hard rubbing is not necessary. Use sparingly.
Note: If black residue does not appear. STOP, it is not a polishable metal.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:15 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:02 pm
Posts: 304
Location: Lancashire
dyna-ti wrote:
feetabix wrote:
........with blisters and horribly blackened hands I may add!........



Sturgeons gloves :wink:

Fishy... :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:23 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 12:53 pm
Posts: 137
Location: Great Britain
Front derailleurs, rear derailleurs, hubs, shifters, handlebars, seatposts, seat clamps, canti brakes, v-brakes, brake levers, rims, crank arms - there's hardly a bike component I haven't polished up. Usually it is to refurbish a component with scratched or chipped paint, or tired anodising. I've always used Brasso or Silvo to finish off. So easily obtainable and they work a treat. Tried aerosol lacquer but have never been satisfied with the results so I stick with raw aluminium. An occasional re-polish keeps the components looking good. A spray with WD 40 helps keep salt corrosion at bay in winter.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:42 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
I am currently a Mothers fan, i have sent a pot to a fussy polishing friend and he thinks it is excellent too. I think it is 'finer' than Autosol and for rough jobs, I use Autosol first and then the Mothers.

Another good polish is Vitalsol which falls between Autosol and Mothers.

Here is a link to a polish discussion in my normal place -

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=263907

Richard


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