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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:09 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:10 am
Posts: 4756
Location: Heathfield, East Sussex
When you've quite finished flogging that particular dead horse I know a butcher who will take it off your hands for a nod and a wink... :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:12 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:29 pm
Posts: 1877
Location: Somerset
We_are_Stevo wrote:
When you've quite finished flogging that particular dead horse I know a butcher who will take it off your hands for a nod and a wink... :lol:


And sell them as beef?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:02 pm
Posts: 1180
Location: In the Garage in Somerset
I've always applied a light smear of grease (most of which is pushed off by fitting the crank anyway) just to prevent any chance of seizure.

Interestingly I also always grease the crank bolt threads too to allow for accurate torque up with no potential for premature binding.

Never had a problem with either.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:18 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:03 am
Posts: 18207
Location: Sunny Glasgow
So am i right in saying :?



The defence rests 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:20 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:41 am
Posts: 193
Location: Michigan, USA
Grease, no (although it can be argued that grease is better than nothing at all). Anti-sieze compound, yes. Is it required/needed? No. Good idea/good preventative practice? Yes. Is it a big deal on BB taper fittings for most folks? No. Members herein typically keep their kit/running gear tidy - cranks get removed frequently enough to where corrosion isn't much of an issue - for most.

What is the physics behind the issue? Galvonic reaction between metals., especially dissimilar metals such as forged steel and aluminum alloy. All metal-to-metal parts contact, especially those which are torqued or pressure fitted and which are subject to moisture/humidity exposure benefit from a light application of anti-sieze compound.

Have a read of the some of the threads about using caustic soda to remove stuck seatposts. A wee bit of AS compound (or lube) at assembly would have helped.

If you don't know when or if these cranks will be off again, do yourself or the next owner a favor, AS them.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:10 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 7:21 am
Posts: 794
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Dry cranks end up creaking more often than not. Thin film of grease on the spindle, clinically clean crank arm taper, smear of grease on the threads and under the cap of the bolts.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:58 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 am
Posts: 2679
Location: Norfolkshire
Sadly this debate will never be resolved and we will continue to see threads appearing as to;

"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."

Stuck Crank
Stuck Seatpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem

All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!


Last edited by Jussa on Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:59 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:10 am
Posts: 4756
Location: Heathfield, East Sussex
As an aside, I also have my doubts about the overtightening issue as an argument 'against...'

...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:19 am 
BoTM Winner / PoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:44 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: norcal
We_are_Stevo wrote:
As an aside, I also have my doubts about the overtightening issue as an argument 'against...'

...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?

Are you saying you've bottomed out the tapers on the bolts?

On every crank you've ever had


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:21 am 
BoTM Winner / PoTM Winner
BoTM Winner / PoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:44 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: norcal
Jussa wrote:
Sadly this debate will never be resolved and we will continue to see threads appearing as to;

"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."

Stuck Crank
Stuck Sestpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem

All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!

One of these things is not like the other 3


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