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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:19 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: No brakes? Way to commit soldier.
I wrap PTFE tape around the BB tapers before fitting cranks.

It helps space the arms out a bit to get a better 'Q factor' to suit my wide hips and ensures ease of removal when the time comes.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:26 pm 
retrobike rider
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Russell wrote:
I wrap PTFE tape around the BB tapers before fitting cranks.

It helps space the arms out a bit to get a better 'Q factor' to suit my wide hips and ensures ease of removal when the time comes.


Do you trim or just let it dangle ?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:29 pm 
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Location: No brakes? Way to commit soldier.
Neatly trimmed....




Obviously.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:31 pm 
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RadNomad wrote:
gtRTSdh wrote:
RadNomad, quote your source because stating something incorrectly 5 or 6 times does not make you correct. The simple fact that crank removal requires force is all that needs to be said.


Actually the simple fact that crank bolts exist on a bicycle is all that needs to be said.


I sense you're running out of patience mate; remember, there's none so deaf as those that don't want to hear... :wink:

...and let's face it, did you never realise that cranks 'distorted' when fitted to a tapered axle so therefore they are a f*ck*ng interference fit either? :facepalm:

And Hollister has the bare faced cheek to accuse other people of promoting ignorance!

(...and that reminds me; the BBB steerer extender has a Dural wedge and the fitting instructions say 'Lightly grease' it. But then, some people would never use one of those either! )


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:42 am 
BoTM Winner / PoTM Winner
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And boom! Right back to trying to use a quill as an example of why you should grease a taper


I knew that wouldn't take long


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:55 am 
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We_are_Stevo wrote:
RadNomad wrote:
gtRTSdh wrote:
RadNomad, quote your source because stating something incorrectly 5 or 6 times does not make you correct. The simple fact that crank removal requires force is all that needs to be said.


Actually the simple fact that crank bolts exist on a bicycle is all that needs to be said.


I sense you're running out of patience mate; remember, there's none so deaf as those that don't want to hear... :wink:

...and let's face it, did you never realise that cranks 'distorted' when fitted to a tapered axle so therefore they are a f*ck*ng interference fit either? :facepalm:

And Hollister has the bare faced cheek to accuse other people of promoting ignorance!

(...and that reminds me; the BBB steerer extender has a Dural wedge and the fitting instructions say 'Lightly grease' it. But then, some people would never use one of those either! )


Hi W_a_S, yes but i am trying to be patient! OK here's one last try after which i will bow out gracefully and let people believe what they wish:
The older Newell System of fit and newer ISO System use the same basic principles. Lets start with the basic definition of INTERFERENCE FIT as follows: It is a fit that always ensures some interference between the hole and shaft in the coupling. The upper limit size of the hole is smaller or at least equal to the lower limit size of the shaft. In other words the shaft diameter is greater than the hole diameter and can not be assembled without thermal / mechanical force.
OK here comes the crux of it: In a tapered hole and shaft arrangement and assuming 100% surface contact when assembled (i.e. a cycle crank taper), it will be appreciated that the nominal size of the hole and shaft are the same at any point along the taper, therefore in accordance with the afore mentioned definition they are NOT interfering in an engineering sense. It is just a "conical wedge". If people cannot grasp this concept then I feel that I have exhausted all reasonable logic to explain it. If anyone is struggling with this - please read again slowly and think about it before jumping to conclusions. Sorry if anyone considers me as patronizing, it is not my intention to be, i'm just enjoying to chat about bicycles and the engineering behind them.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:54 am 
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Location: Heathfield, East Sussex
hollister wrote:
And boom! Right back to trying to use a quill as an example of why you should grease a taper


I knew that wouldn't take long


Not at all; and you took the bait just as I knew you would... :wink:

Just illustrating the fact that if you give people a couple of options they will never agree in principle on either. In many respects personal opinion is far too entrenched to even consider the alternative, and it is the spurious justification for some of those opinions backed up by rhetoric that grinds!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:00 am 
BoTM Winner / PoTM Winner
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Oh, you were purposely playing the fool this entire time

My mistake, I thought you were being real

Apologies


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:23 am 
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I still use ky

not for bikes though :D


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:29 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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sylus wrote:
I still use ky

not for bikes though :D




So have you got a square taper then


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