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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:35 am 
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Hi all.

I'm doing a P7 build - http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... 27#1728127 - and I'm unsure whether to put some shiny new Gil_m decals on before or after I've had it lacquered. Obviously, it makes sense to put them on first so the lacquer protects them over the top, but a couple of the places I've spoken to about doing the lacquer have said the heat might cause the decals to bubble up. Anyone got any experience of this?

Thanks for your help from a first-time build from scratch-er!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:41 am 
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Depends entirely on what paint they are using, and what the decals are made of...

If they are using a cellulose based paint with lots of thinners, then they will lift, and get ruined. 2pk is mostly fine, as long as they don't use too much thinners

One thing I disslike is when the decals/vinyl is too thick, sneak then is lacquered...


G


Last edited by unkleGsif on Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:41 am 
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Defiantly put them on before the clear, clear is clear and shouldn't effect them at all, good luck :D


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:29 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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IIRc, Gil recommends that his decals are not lacquered


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:18 pm 
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Very much dependant on what happens to the frame once the decals have been applied...

I am far from a professional paint re-finisher so happen to listen to other opinions but in the past 5+ years this is what I have found

I know of at least one major re-finisher how regularly applies my decals and then oven bakes the clear coat with nothing but great results, on the other hand I know an equally big company who has nothing but problems when they bake the decals.

Basically I recommend that they are not oven baked, if you use a 2 pack clear coat or an air dry system this seems to be a favoured method

Alternatively apply the decals onto the final coat and leave them, meaning they can easily be replaced if damaged

Again this is dependant on the size of the decals and the amount of use/washing you intend once they are fitted

Hope this helps, always happy to answer questions as well as I can :)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:34 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback Gil (and everyone else) – much appreciated. Looks as though I'm best off applying the decals after the lacquer then, unless I can find someone who uses an air dry system rather than baking.

Must get around to ordering those decals off you Gil. Will drop you an email asap. Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:29 pm 
retrobike rider
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Chairmanmo wrote:
Thanks for the feedback Gil (and everyone else) – much appreciated. Looks as though I'm best off applying the decals after the lacquer then, unless I can find someone who uses an air dry system rather than baking.

Must get around to ordering those decals off you Gil. Will drop you an email asap. Cheers.


By air dry system he means from an aerosol like they sell in Halfords. This isn't as hard as a 2 pack, nor is it resistant to chemicals like IPA, solvents and (most likely) disk brake cleaner.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:35 pm 
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Ah, I see. One of the finishers I spoke to mentioned something about a 'wet and dry' lacquer (which they themselves didn't do), so that's what I thought Gil meant. Don't think I'll be doing a from-a-can job. Will get it done properly, apply the decals over the top and hope they don't get damaged. Can always get some more and re-apply if they do I suppose!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:44 am 
retrobike rider
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Could you lacquer the decals before they are fitted to the bike with aerosol lacquer then stick them onto the frame which has 2 pack lacquer?
This would mean the decals are protected but are also easily replaceable.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:35 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner
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1 - you'd never get the decals off the backing, as they'd be under a coat if lacquer.
2 - even if you lifeted them before it had dried, you'd get marks or fingerprints in the lacquer, so would look sh!t.
3 - the decals would still be peelable from the frame. The whole point of lacquering over them, is that the edges are locked under a layer of paint

G


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