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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:38 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Thanks Fluff...

Both stanchions are pretty much the same, and it was that corrosion that was stopping it coming out... :shock:

I've attacked it gently with 1500 wet+dry but i think it's still going to need some work. I'm not uptight on whether they work perfectly, I'll just be happy to have rebuilt them successfully myself.. but I'm already preparing myself for it to be the long-haul.. :lol:

Was thinking about the kronos spring upgrade both sides, but would that then require me to fill them with oil? or is it designed to be run 'dry' so to speak.. ?


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:46 pm 
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The springs are run dry, just need/work best if you give them a lube before fitting otherwise I've read they can creak/squeak.

I've also read that some people have converted the forks to an oil bath, but not sure how to do this, though the sceptic in me believes it's just pouring some oil into the lowers before doing the bolts up. Hopefully someone can confirm/deny.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:50 pm 
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Steve,
Kronos Springs go in dry (well, with some Fork Grease! Not Lithium!!!) Only as a light coating just as an anti erosion. They just pop in from the top & then you screw in the adjusters. Easy as that!!! You just need to get the right weight springs & full instructions with them so can't go wrong! I did this with mine. The only Oil you may ever need is the RH Leg Damper Unit (looking from the front) in the stanchion. I got my Mate's Shop to reload mine & I have the plastic one which hasn't leaked on me yet...
I'm kicking myself for not doing a rebuild thread!!!


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:52 pm 
retrobike rider
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GT-Steve wrote:
Thanks Fluff...

Both stanchions are pretty much the same, and it was that corrosion that was stopping it coming out... :shock:

I've attacked it gently with 1500 wet+dry but i think it's still going to need some work. I'm not uptight on whether they work perfectly, I'll just be happy to have rebuilt them successfully myself.. but I'm already preparing myself for it to be the long-haul.. :lol:

Was thinking about the kronos spring upgrade both sides, but would that then require me to fill them with oil? or is it designed to be run 'dry' so to speak.. ?


Check the bushings as best you can as they might have had a bad time, but clean them and slap plenty of fork grease on them. I used a bit of polish one the top surface had gone. Someone mentioned using some glue of some sort to fill in and under dimples.

Run them dry (well fork grease). or drop some 5 to 10cc of oil in the bottom of each if you want. Rekiborter will tell you how he runs his, Rockshox converted to that later on in 1998.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:54 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Cheers chaps.

If mine were complete forks, I'd have done a photo strip/rebuild..

Think I might just go for the kronos then.. seems so much less of a faff.

@ Claret73 - I'm assuming then (from what you say) that I can go ahead and put them all back together, and then just slide the springs in the tops, screw the adjuster knobs in, and they're ready to go..?


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 10:06 pm 
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GT-Steve wrote:
...I'm assuming then, that I can go ahead and put them all back together, and then just slide the springs in the tops, screw the adjuster knobs in, and they're ready to go..?


Yes, really is easy as that... 8)

'Mr Wings' Rockshox vid at bottom of page...


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 10:15 pm 
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We_are_Stevo wrote:
GT-Steve wrote:
...I'm assuming then, that I can go ahead and put them all back together, and then just slide the springs in the tops, screw the adjuster knobs in, and they're ready to go..?


Yes, really is easy as that... 8)


Yes Mate! As above...


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 10:46 pm 
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Posted this link somewhere before in case you didn't see it at the time...


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:08 pm 
Anglian Deputy AEC
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Regarding the oil bath.

Yes, it is a simple as adding 5cc of 5wt fork oil to the bottom of each leg. You feed the oil through the bolt hole using a syringe after the fork is assembled. Obviously this is with the fork extended before the fork bolts are located and tightened. The purpose of the oil bath is to add further lubrication to the lower bushing. Turning the bike upside down allows the oil to trickle past the bushings and keep everything sweet.


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:38 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Cheers for the info... 8)

Today I ordered some Kronos springs... 8) , and I'm looking into paint prices for the outers.

I'm convinced there's loads of bits missing out of these forks now, as there appears to be nothing else above the top bushings, except for the black plastic caps I popped off. Should there be wipers in the top of the outers as well?


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