Mixing new/worn chain/sprockets

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bhill22

Retrobike Rider
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What is the best practice?
I find chains wear out quicker than sprockets, so using a new chain on worn sprockets maybe not be ideal but there is no other way is there?
If buying a new chain for worn sprockets is it worth investing in high end chain or just use the cheapest available?

I dont know looking for an answer :roll:
 
old chain

best practice?

i've always been advised to replace chains and cassettes together. found it to be true aswell! i put a new chain on a 2nd hand "hardly used" cassette but wouldnt bite at all. real bad as i had to get uphill back to the house.

sometimes you get away with it though but the cassette has to be good.

unless we are talking hard to get expensive parts i would replace them both on grounds that you then know the mileage of both components and will/may save you messing about swapping again if needed. once a cassette lock ring is installed it is better left alone until absolutely necessary.

7/8 speed chains less than a tenner in some cases. 7/8 speed cassettes 10-18 quid.
 
best practise is to buy a chain wear tool and replace when the chain has worn (not stretched) by 0.75 %

you can go through 3 or 4 chains on the same cassette before a new chain starts jumping.

obviously when the chain has worn by 0.75%, the cassette will have worn a tiny bit too so in theory the cassette will wear the chain out a bit quicker..... but even so, as chains are much cheaper than cassettes it is worth doing.
 
i agree with the above, casettes last far longer and chains are cheaper so change chains first, i think a part worn cassette will wear a new chain quicker but then it all evens out.
 
we used to count 10 links, lay the chain in a straight line and hold both ends (of the 10 links) if you can get more than 1 inch movement on the 10th link i.e 1/2 inch up and 1/2 down the chain was deemed to be kaput and replaced. but that was bitd when we diddnt have new fangled things like chain wear checkers and cars... oh and electricity
 
Chute55uk":2vv4van5 said:
we used to count 10 links, lay the chain in a straight line and hold both ends (of the 10 links) if you can get more than 1 inch movement on the 10th link i.e 1/2 inch up and 1/2 down the chain was deemed to be kaput and replaced. but that was bitd when we diddnt have new fangled things like chain wear checkers and cars... oh and electricity
Click to expand...

yeah I know of a few old methods like that too, though I just warp it round the chainring (big to big) and guess :roll: :LOL:
 
I have customers who come and think also that the chain has to be replaced with the sprokets. sometimes this is true but sometimes not.

I always advise and replace chains at 0.75% wear. Normally when I do this and test ride the bike their is no slippage and the customer leaves happy that they have spent less than they feared. However this is only the case if the chain is changed at around 0.75% wear. Leave it till the wear gets to 1% or more and the chances are new cogs will be needed.

Sometimes however it does not work. Therefore a test ride up a hill in all gears is essential to ensure proper function. You can normally tell by the profile of the teeth though.
 
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