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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:02 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Jussa wrote:
Ok, spent this evening with my 1996/97 Orange C16R.


Your recently married..you sure the c16r was the best option? :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:05 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 am
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Location: Norfolkshire
sylus wrote:
Jussa wrote:
Ok, spent this evening with my 1996/97 Orange C16R.


Your recently married..you sure the c16r was the best option? :lol: :lol: :lol:


She's out saving lives around Norfolk on the Ambulances, so a night in with my other girls ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:16 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7305
Location: Hove
Jussa wrote:
Ok, spent this evening with my 1996/97 Orange C16R, Removed Original Seatpost & Shim to confirm size.
Original Seatpost = 26.4
Fitted NOS Orange Seatpost without Shim = 29.8
Clamp re-fitted and perfect fit all round :D
Hopefully that should solve the Seatpost issue, I'm guessing the Tech Spec on Orange's website is incorrect but the information in the catalogue is spot on correct.

OK, but maybe we shouldn't be too axiomatic. Mine takes a 29.6 nicely and on the other side several of my Konas take 27.2, even though Kona specified 27.0 in every case. Some of my other Konas really do only take a 27.0, even when they have the same seat post as another one that takes 27.2. I don't know how precise the reaming process is, but I assume that it isn't so precise that it always gives the same outcome down to 0.1mm.

One thing is for sure though, that I'm certain you should always use the biggest post that fits, even if the maker didn't specify it. I don't think it's wise to put the entire strain just on the area around the clamp, and if you have to distort the slot to make the clamp hold, you're setting up a potential crack.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:25 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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I've always been a fan of putting the biggest, tightest fitting thing in a hole..other wise it's like waving a wand in a cave


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:27 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:08 am
Posts: 6843
Location: Nth Somerset, UK
No activity here for a bit, so I thought I'd just add the latest updates to my daughters C16R.

I bolted the bits on, but the ideas and colour scheme are all hers.

The C16R, known as James is now running SRAM 2 X 10 in the guise of X9 and Truvativ chainset, Avid SD7 V-brakes, Easton Bars, Charge seatpost and saddle, Hope / Mavic F&R wheels (which was fun matching the grey rims), and recently fitted with the excellent Kenda Nervegal tyres, oh yes and a set of Pace RC35 forks with suitably soft elastomers (thanks to Tim at Fork English).

We tackled the red run at Haldon near Exeter a few weeks ago, which was a great shakedown run, where I managed to destroy an M900 XTR rear mech :evil: and James shrugged the whole thing off as easy-peasy.

Anyway, James:

Image
Image

Kt doing her 'moody girlie cyclist' bit in Leigh Woods.
Image

And 'happy girlie cyclist' in Ashton Hill Plantation
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:39 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:49 pm
Posts: 11
i accidentally built up a retrobike. really, i just wanted a rigid framed mtb to cart the new daughter around on.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:47 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Nth Somerset, UK
Welcome.

I recognise that bike, from a certain blog I have recently commented upon. :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:49 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:49 pm
Posts: 11
seeing as i got the frame on here it seemed appropriate to post up a pic.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:07 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: Nth Somerset, UK
Absolutely.

I have to say, the more I look at it, the better it gets; that really is a very neat and clean build.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:28 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:49 pm
Posts: 11
Need to shorten rear brake cable and run in other side of the seatpost, as well as a few other minor changes. But thank you, more luck than judgement.


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