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 Post subject: Re: c16-r project
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 3
Jussa wrote:
glosboy wrote:
Some great looking examples on here.

Inspired me to pull my c16 from out of the garage eaves.
Has been there for at least 13 odd years, unused.

Is completely untouched since bought new some time in the 90s from Noah's Ark in Stroud. Even managed to get air in the original inner tubes (rear has a bit of a leak)!

Given a quick wash, but chain and cassette need a good clean/replacing.

I have the original end bars in a box somewhere.

I assume I can get replacement shimano cables etc from my LBS


A very nice example you have there :) Cables should not be a problem.



Thanks....Those horrid pedals will have to go in the bin though :)


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 Post subject: Re: c16-r project
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:01 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: Hove
glosboy wrote:
Inspired me to pull my c16 from out of the garage eaves.
Has been there for at least 13 odd years, unused.
Is completely untouched since bought new some time in the 90s from Noah's Ark in Stroud. Even managed to get air in the original inner tubes (rear has a bit of a leak)!
Given a quick wash, but chain and cassette need a good clean/replacing.
I have the original end bars in a box somewhere.
I assume I can get replacement shimano cables etc from my LBS

Nice looking original bike. It's a 1997, the last year of the C16R (they went back to the Clockwork name from 1998), and the first that was sold with an ahead stem and V-brakes.

I would guess that the things that need replacing after 13 years are most likely the rubber things - definitely the tubes (even if they hold air, not worth the risk of using them), probably the brake pads which will have gone hard (should work, but not as well as fresh ones) and possibly the tyres might be cracked. You might get away with the chain if there was any oil on it when it was stored, but the cassette shouldn't need replacing - just get some oil on the chain and use it and I would expect the cassette to work ok even if it has surface rust. I would have thought the cables would also be fine, but if you're confident of doing it, I would undo them, take the outers out of the stops, oil the cable to get oil into the outers, then reassemble. Might well be ok. I would also oil the derailleur pivots and spray a bit of oil into the shifters.

You haven't chosen the best time of year to get restarted, but it's a great bike and it's certainly worthwhile getting it going again.


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 Post subject: Re: c16-r project
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:46 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 3:34 pm
Posts: 1576
Location: Haydock
glosboy wrote:
Some great looking examples on here.

Inspired me to pull my c16 from out of the garage eaves.
Has been there for at least 13 odd years, unused.

Is completely untouched since bought new some time in the 90s from Noah's Ark in Stroud. Even managed to get air in the original inner tubes (rear has a bit of a leak)!

Given a quick wash, but chain and cassette need a good clean/replacing.

I have the original end bars in a box somewhere.

I assume I can get replacement shimano cables etc from my LBS


That's interesting. The one I picked up secondhand also had a miss match front nickel fork. I just assumed it had been a later modification rather than being supplied that way. Yours looks like its still in good nik. Logos on sea tube look pretty good.


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 Post subject: Re: c16-r project
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:41 am 
Newbie

Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 3
dablk wrote:
glosboy wrote:
Some great looking examples on here.

Inspired me to pull my c16 from out of the garage eaves.
Has been there for at least 13 odd years, unused.

Is completely untouched since bought new some time in the 90s from Noah's Ark in Stroud. Even managed to get air in the original inner tubes (rear has a bit of a leak)!

Given a quick wash, but chain and cassette need a good clean/replacing.

I have the original end bars in a box somewhere.

I assume I can get replacement shimano cables etc from my LBS


That's interesting. The one I picked up secondhand also had a miss match front nickel fork. I just assumed it had been a later modification rather than being supplied that way. Yours looks like its still in good nik. Logos on sea tube look pretty good.


It was a long time ago, but I think I had the option of group set (obviously) and possibly forks (stock, nickel or suspension). Had my Kona Lava Dome stolen and bought this as a replacement commuter bike.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:04 pm
Posts: 1716
Little help woul be much appreciated :oops: Here is my son's bike (build in progress :P ), what's the exact size of the seatpost (still slightly turning in the seat tube) :?:


Image
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:45 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 3:34 pm
Posts: 1576
Location: Haydock
Do you have a shim in it? I am having similar problems with a shim installed, the previous owner had a piece of coke can under that type of seat collar as well as the shim. so i might try that and see if the collar is actually thr problem. Will let you know if I solve it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 8:58 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: Hove
kiwideturin wrote:
Little help woul be much appreciated :oops: Here is my son's bike (build in progress :P ), what's the exact size of the seatpost (still slightly turning in the seat tube) :?:

That's the 97 in forward-facing slot flavour, for which Orange fitted a 27.2 post with a 27.2 to 29.6 shim.

Judging from the distortion, the post you're using is too small.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:05 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 am
Posts: 2679
Location: Norfolkshire
Anthony wrote:
kiwideturin wrote:
Little help woul be much appreciated :oops: Here is my son's bike (build in progress :P ), what's the exact size of the seatpost (still slightly turning in the seat tube) :?:

That's the 97 in forward-facing slot flavour, for which Orange fitted a 27.2 post with a 27.2 to 29.6 shim.

Judging from the distortion, the post you're using is too small.


Strange my 1996/97 C16R is a 26.4 shimmed to 29.8 ?? Original seatpost and shim, same clamp set up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:04 pm
Posts: 1716
Anthony wrote:

That's the 97 in forward-facing slot flavour, for which Orange fitted a 27.2 post with a 27.2 to 29.6 shim.

Judging from the distortion, the post you're using is too small.


I've just check, it's the right seatpost (USE in 27.2 diameter), but wrong shim, it's a 29.4 :oops:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:14 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 am
Posts: 2679
Location: Norfolkshire
kiwideturin wrote:
Anthony wrote:

That's the 97 in forward-facing slot flavour, for which Orange fitted a 27.2 post with a 27.2 to 29.6 shim.

Judging from the distortion, the post you're using is too small.


I've just check, it's the right seatpost (USE in 27.2 diameter), but wrong shim, it's a 29.4 :oops:


Very strange?? If you look at the Orange catalogue ;

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/3 ... bd74ce2117

You will see the original seat post size in the C16R spec. Obviously using non standard sized posts require different shims.


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