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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 12:55 pm 
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I have owned this set of wheels (M950's with X517 Ceramic SUP's) for getting on 15years now, and love them dearly, having covered thousands upon thousands of miles, however there is one issue that has irked me since day one....


on anything other than smooth (velodrome like) surfaces, and with ones wieght DIRECTLY centred, the rims either rattle against the brake blocks, or they flex and rub on the brakes.

now, i know this is partly due to me liking very little travel in the brake lever, but my LBS recommended researching if the hubs will take a 4x build to strengthen them up a bit

So here I am, asking some Guru's for some well oiled advice

Can XTR M950 hubs take a 3 cross build?
Cheers


Last edited by unkleGsif on Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:08 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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3 cross is the standard, the default go-to for a strong wheel. Your LBS is managing to make it sound like something special, so i'd be worried about their competence

i have my XTR m950 rear hub laced 3-cross


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:05 pm 
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maybe he said 4cross... i was cooking about 200 sausages on a bbq for the good people of Chorlton when we spoke :P

edited original thread


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:19 pm 
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I've got to say, this sounds very odd to me, the hub really has very little to do with the lateral strength of a wheel, and 517 rims don't have a reputation for being unduly flexy either. There should be zero lateral movement in a wheel whilst you are riding in a straight line, providing it is correctly trued and tensioned.

The only other variable you could consider is spoke gauge, your wheels may have been built with 15g or even 15/17g (butted) spokes, I wouldn't expect that to cause too many problems in a properly built wheel either though.

I think your first course of action would be to ask around and find out which LBS has the best wheel builder, get him or her to take a look and see what their verdict is.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:20 pm 
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maybe the tension is too low


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:33 pm 
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mechagouki wrote:
I've got to say, this sounds very odd to me, the hub really has very little to do with the lateral strength of a wheel, and 517 rims don't have a reputation for being unduly flexy either. There should be zero lateral movement in a wheel whilst you are riding in a straight line, providing it is correctly trued and tensioned.
......


the question was not specifically about the input that the hub has to the strength of the wheel equation, but to do with whther those particular hubs will take a 4x build. I know a radial build will void any Shimano warranty, as it stresses the flanges too much. I have read on other sites that a 4x only really works on hubs with higher flanges, as it doesnt cause the spokes to run too perpendicular to the flange

specifically tho, I was not talking about riding in a straight line. I was talking about when leaning over in a bend, or with the bike cocked over to one side while coasting


maybe its just because I run my brakes so tight to the rim (roadie styleee :oops: )


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:35 pm 
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sancho wrote:
maybe the tension is too low


just been retensioned and trued for the first time since they were built.... still rub when cornering or when wieght is not dead centre


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:36 pm 
retrobike rider
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If the spokes are at anywhere near the correct tension, the spokes cannot be your problem. There must have been many thousands of wheels built with 517 on M950 with DT Revolution (2.0-1.5-2.0) spokes and if such light spokes couldn't locate the rim firmly then I for one would have noticed it by now, as well as everybody else.

If the wheel is rattling, it usually means either that your cones aren't tight or your skewer isn't tight.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:38 pm 
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For the amount of time you intend to ride them I'd suggest bite the bullet and pay a really good wheel builder to construct the wheels. 4X will be fine but I might also suggest a top wheelsmith will make a fine and sturdy 3X for you.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:49 pm 
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Anthony wrote:
If the wheel is rattling, it usually means either that your cones aren't tight or your skewer isn't tight.


Cones are spont on, skewers tight..... its the rims that flex and rub or rattle against the brake blocks

I might just get them rebuilt at another wheelsmiths


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