Pace RC200 + 1" ahead stems

I have a 1993 RC200 I would like to get sorted and use it again. It has a 1" headset, about five years ago I bought a pair of 1" RC31 forks when they came out.

It currently has a 1" syncros aheadset and a 1" Syncros cattleprod aheadstem. The plastic top cap will not withstand the torque required to tension the headset properly, and never has. The headset / stem also works itself loose slightly when I ride the bike

Is it possible to either get an alloy topcap for the syncros stem (unlikely) or a shim to allow the use of a 1 1/8" aheadstem?

thanks

Could you not use a 1" road ahead stem, I think the Easton ones are avalible in 0 degree rise and look quite MTB until you find a more suitable repacement.

yamaha_rd500v4":3eebp89w said:

I have a 1993 RC200 I would like to get sorted and use it again. It has a 1" headset, about five years ago I bought a pair of 1" RC31 forks when they came out.

It currently has a 1" syncros aheadset and a 1" Syncros cattleprod aheadstem. The plastic top cap will not withstand the torque required to tension the headset properly, and never has. The headset / stem also works itself loose slightly when I ride the bike

Is it possible to either get an alloy topcap for the syncros stem (unlikely) or a shim to allow the use of a 1 1/8" aheadstem?

thanks

Click to expand...

Yes, you can get a shim to 1 1/8 very cheaply, but I wouldn't give up on that classic Syncros.

Firstly, I'm sure I've got a one-inch alloy top cap from my lbs in the past, but even if that's not possible these days, why don't you just use a big washer to tension the headset, then tighten the stem bolt good and proper (as you would anyway) and then replace the washer with the plastic top cap, which you wouldn't then need to torque very hard?

If the stem bolt isn't holding though, you do have a problem with the stem - it's that bolt that's supposed to be keeping everything tight - not the top cap.

why not try a 1 1/8 top cap? it's a million to one long shot but it might just work

the syncros stem has never held tight for more than a day or so before slop appears in the syncros hardcore headset, it has been like it since I bought it all new, I have hardly ever used the rc200 because it annoyed me. It has been to two local specialist bike shops who have found nothing wrong with it. I just want to replace the stem with something more modern and less exotic now.

The RC200 has always been trouble, I specced it with TNT cranks and Pace rings, the tnt spacings were slightly different from shimano and the chain would jam between small and middle ring. One crank arm snapped in the end. I used to ride my old Kona around instead!

yamaha_rd500v4":3o4d9nqv said:

the syncros stem has never held tight for more than a day or so before slop appears in the syncros hardcore headset, it has been like it since I bought it all new, I have hardly ever used the rc200 because it annoyed me. It has been to two local specialist bike shops who have found nothing wrong with it. I just want to replace the stem with something more modern and less exotic now.

Click to expand...

Well who am I to argue with two x LBS? But that kind of pinch bolt on the cattleprod stem is a well-proven design and shouldn't come loose from the steerer unless there's a fault with it, or there's damage on the relevant part of the steerer.

But I'm still not clear whether the problem is with the stem or the headset. You say the resin top cap won't take enough torque to tension the headset, but as far as I'm aware the reason why even good makers like Syncros use resin is that it's not intended to take a lot of torque - if it needs more torque than it'll take, then it's an indication that there's something wrong elsewhere. Are you sure there isn't something wrong with the way that the headset has been assembled? Or could it be that the star fangled nut is loose within the steerer?

If the Pace is so much trouble I'll happily take it down the tip for you. A couple of quid should cover my expenses (bus fare from Hayfield to Glossop).