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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 3:11 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 9:23 am
Posts: 67
I have a 1993 RC200 I would like to get sorted and use it again. It has a 1" headset, about five years ago I bought a pair of 1" RC31 forks when they came out.

It currently has a 1" syncros aheadset and a 1" Syncros cattleprod aheadstem. The plastic top cap will not withstand the torque required to tension the headset properly, and never has. The headset / stem also works itself loose slightly when I ride the bike

Is it possible to either get an alloy topcap for the syncros stem (unlikely) or a shim to allow the use of a 1 1/8" aheadstem?

thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:45 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:14 pm
Posts: 3835
Location: Somerset
Could you not use a 1" road ahead stem, I think the Easton ones are avalible in 0 degree rise and look quite MTB until you find a more suitable repacement.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 12:03 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
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Location: Hove
yamaha_rd500v4 wrote:
I have a 1993 RC200 I would like to get sorted and use it again. It has a 1" headset, about five years ago I bought a pair of 1" RC31 forks when they came out.

It currently has a 1" syncros aheadset and a 1" Syncros cattleprod aheadstem. The plastic top cap will not withstand the torque required to tension the headset properly, and never has. The headset / stem also works itself loose slightly when I ride the bike

Is it possible to either get an alloy topcap for the syncros stem (unlikely) or a shim to allow the use of a 1 1/8" aheadstem?

thanks


Yes, you can get a shim to 1 1/8 very cheaply, but I wouldn't give up on that classic Syncros.

Firstly, I'm sure I've got a one-inch alloy top cap from my lbs in the past, but even if that's not possible these days, why don't you just use a big washer to tension the headset, then tighten the stem bolt good and proper (as you would anyway) and then replace the washer with the plastic top cap, which you wouldn't then need to torque very hard?

If the stem bolt isn't holding though, you do have a problem with the stem - it's that bolt that's supposed to be keeping everything tight - not the top cap.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 3:00 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:11 pm
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Location: Hobbiton-on-the-Water
why not try a 1 1/8 top cap? it's a million to one long shot but it might just work


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 4:33 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 9:23 am
Posts: 67
the syncros stem has never held tight for more than a day or so before slop appears in the syncros hardcore headset, it has been like it since I bought it all new, I have hardly ever used the rc200 because it annoyed me. It has been to two local specialist bike shops who have found nothing wrong with it. I just want to replace the stem with something more modern and less exotic now.

The RC200 has always been trouble, I specced it with TNT cranks and Pace rings, the tnt spacings were slightly different from shimano and the chain would jam between small and middle ring. One crank arm snapped in the end. I used to ride my old Kona around instead!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:48 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Hove
yamaha_rd500v4 wrote:
the syncros stem has never held tight for more than a day or so before slop appears in the syncros hardcore headset, it has been like it since I bought it all new, I have hardly ever used the rc200 because it annoyed me. It has been to two local specialist bike shops who have found nothing wrong with it. I just want to replace the stem with something more modern and less exotic now.


Well who am I to argue with two x LBS? But that kind of pinch bolt on the cattleprod stem is a well-proven design and shouldn't come loose from the steerer unless there's a fault with it, or there's damage on the relevant part of the steerer.

But I'm still not clear whether the problem is with the stem or the headset. You say the resin top cap won't take enough torque to tension the headset, but as far as I'm aware the reason why even good makers like Syncros use resin is that it's not intended to take a lot of torque - if it needs more torque than it'll take, then it's an indication that there's something wrong elsewhere. Are you sure there isn't something wrong with the way that the headset has been assembled? Or could it be that the star fangled nut is loose within the steerer?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:11 pm
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Location: Hobbiton-on-the-Water
If the Pace is so much trouble I'll happily take it down the tip for you. A couple of quid should cover my expenses (bus fare from Hayfield to Glossop). :wink:


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