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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:18 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:41 am
Posts: 1083
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Hahaha I have something similar except I have an old set of handlebars I do that with. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:40 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 3:07 pm
Posts: 4211
Location: London for my sin's
FST4RD wrote:
Hahaha I have something similar except I have an old set of handlebars I do that with. :D


i'm not alone .. in fact I have 3 Reynolds 501 handlebars for various leverage jobs.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:33 pm
Posts: 319
Location: Moss Eisley, Near Chester
I've posted pic before but this is my truing stand based on Roger Musson's book. Also made a nipple driver.



Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:30 pm 
MacRetro rider
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 2:11 pm
Posts: 8700
Location: DUNDEE
paddlingpool wrote:
MADJEZ wrote:
Homemade headset cup remover, helps to have a Dad who's a
retired engineer.

Used it today, works a treat. Cost me a cup of tea.

Image


What size copper piping did you use?


At the current cost of copper you might be cheaper buying a real one :)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:21 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9399
Location: Devon
JediPaddler wrote:
I've posted pic before but this is my truing stand based on Roger Musson's book. Also made a nipple driver.



Image

Image

Image


That is fantastic. Might have a go myself at one.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:02 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:40 am
Posts: 1691
Location: Exeter
A jig: weight weenieing an '85 Gibson Les Paul Custom

Image

It's gonna be OK

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:33 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:02 pm
Posts: 564
Location: North East Lincolnshire
WD Pro wrote:
Headset press from my post above in use :

Image

Worked a treat 8)

Crown race tool made from two pieces of plastic plumbing pipe :

Image

I sleeved the end to help stop it splitting and chamfered it a bit internally :

Image

So it fits a king race perfectly :

Image

Also worked a treat 8)

WD :D


Hmmmm, really like the look of that....... 8)

What are the bearings for inbetween the washers and nuts, was it costly to make?

Really interested in this as I have a Chris King headset on its way to me and have never fitted an expensive headset before and want to do it right, and yours looks the perfect tool for the job :D


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:08 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
Thanks for the comments 8)

This is probably a better picture of the bits :

Image

Yes, the bits were quite cheap :

• M10 Stainless nuts : pennies (and I already had them in my stash - check eBay)
• M10 Stainless washers : pennies (already had as above)
• M10 Stainless studding : I think about a fiver off eBay (for three lengths)
• 2 x thrust washers : £2 each of eBay
• The ally bits and large stainless washers : I would have made these myself but as I have lost access to a lathe :-( I used the services of broardy (he's posted above), but I got them with a batch of stuff so I couldn't comment on individual cost, you had better contact him directly ;-)

I (like most things :lol:) probably over thought it but things I considered :

• Long ally bodies to provide even / parallel pull by location on the studding.
• Close tolerance on the bore to help above.
• Close tolerance on the OD to suit the ID of the King - better location.
• Stainless washers on the ally parts so the Ti didn't dig in (use without for ally headsets so as not to damage ano).
• Thrust washers on the ends so the turning motion of the shaft nuts doesn't rotate the cups before they start to bite in the frame - it would be rude for the King logo not to face perfectly forward ... :lol:
• Double nut on the top locked together so I could use a socket on the wrench (less chance of slipping and dinging the top tube) - I will get these tig welded next time I have some done.
• Single nut on the bottom - this is the one I tightend with a ratchet ring spanner, always pull away from the frame ;-)

The crown race press is made from offcuts. If I remember rightly the main piece is imperial and the collar is metric. By chance they are a near perfect fit so a bit of glue bonds them solid. The cap is to try and top the top splitting when you whack it (it worked). I used a rubber dead blow hammer.

Hope that helps :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:23 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:10 pm
Posts: 1813
Location: Froggie
FST4RD wrote:
Hahaha I have something similar except I have an old set of handlebars I do that with. :D


I prefer the vacuum cleaner tube ( long one) - works a treat for Bottom Bracket removal :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:53 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:02 pm
Posts: 564
Location: North East Lincolnshire
Thanks for tha WD Pro. Do you have any dimensions for the turned alloy incertion piece? Thanks. :D


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