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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 10:53 pm 
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Location: Surrey
I bought a Cadex frame a good year or two ago with the idea of building a lightweight commuter. This has been sat in my shed for a long while now, but the other day (Thursday 5 May in the PM) I finally began the build, using parts I had sitting around the shed/stash.

First off, I blew the dust and cobwebs off the frame:

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Rear brakes next, XTR M952:

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XTR M952 Rear mech soon followed:

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Seatpost was already fitted (Thomson Elite in 30.0) and used to hold the frame in the stand, as was the saddle, a brooks that I picked up off here:

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Forks next. I originally planned to use some Pace CR36 Pro Class:

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Sadly these turned out to be fantastic cosmetically, but the star nut span, which was the first problem, but another issue I found was that the stantions were pitted below the seal. Not visible when mounted, but I thought I'd save these for another day, so instead some Sids were fitted:

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Headset (Cane Creek C3 I think) and stem (Thomson Elite) fitted at the same time:

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Front brakes next - XTR M952:

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Bars then fitted - Answer Hyperlite carbon (a bit modern, I know):

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Now for the controls, brake levers - M952, and just the rear shifter, again M952:

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Wheels and tyres slapped on to see how it looks. Some Rolf Propels (ceramic rims) shod with WTB slickasaurus:

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So far so good, just need to finish it off:

- Onza Ules grips
- XTR M950 cranks with DH spider and 46 (or 8, can't remember) DH ring
- M952 bb
- Cables - Flak Jackets all round
- Avid rollamajig
- Cassette - will probably just use an LX one I have lying around
- Pedals - some crank bros Candy's
- Fettling

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Today (7th May and day two of the build - pics to follow) begain well, fitting the cassette, running the cables, setting up the brakes etc, but when it came to the cranks, all things started to go wrong.

First off, fitting the BB was fine, but when I came to fit the ring to the cranks, I realised I needed shorter chain ring bolts than I had kicking about, so off to the LBS for me. Returned and fitted them no problem.

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When it came to mounting the cranks to the BB, the troubles began. For whatever reason, I could not get the crank arms on to the bb splines, and after taking it all apart, including the self extracting crank bolts, I noticed that the splines simply did not fit. Checked another M952 BB I had, and the same problem. Fortunately I also had an M950 BB and when using this one, it fitted without any hassle, so I guess Shimano must have changed the spline pattern slightly, as when putting an M950 spline end to end with an M952, I could barely see any difference, but the arms simply would not fit. Anyway, problem solved, so M950 BB used with the M950 arms and all fitted well.

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Next on was the chain, an SRAM PC991 - Doh! No powerlink, so off to the LBS again, though at least it was only £1.

Chain now fitted, and gears fettled. Remembered I had an SRP bolt in red that would match the forks, wheel spacers and the Flak Jacket shields so on this went (after faffing with the spring).

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Grips and pedals fitted and it's now ready for a spin, though after a brief tour of my garden (not huge), I think the stem may be a little short.

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That should be about it, though the bearings on the rear wheel are a little noisy. Perhaps from lack of use, perhaps on the way out - anyone know how to replace these. Happy to have a stab rather than pour more money into the coffers of my LBS, though in saying that, they have come to my rescue a few times during the build.

I'd welcome your comments on my build, anything you'd do different, update/change etc. I may change the cassette, as it is a bit bog standard, and will save a bit of weight too, though this is ultimately going to be used for commuting miles, so perhaps not worth the expense.

I'll try to get it weighed at some point too, but if anyone wants to guess, just for fun, then I can at some point confirm how close you were.


Last edited by ishaw on Sun May 08, 2011 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 11:44 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Nice build.

If you ever think about moving on the pro class's or fancy a trade then let me know :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Gruff wrote:
Nice build.

If you ever think about moving on the pro class's or fancy a trade then let me know :wink:

I'm certainly considering it, as I have another set freshly restored st much expense, so the others are a bit spare.

Thanks for the feedback on the build too, will post finished build pics tomorrow. It's turned out quite nice!


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 6:50 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 9:41 pm
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Location: Italy
hi mate, just to say, on my cfm1, seatpost is 30,2 ;)

cyb


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:50 am 
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cyb wrote:
hi mate, just to say, on my cfm1, seatpost is 30,2 ;)

cyb

Not sure how or why I got 30.0, think the lbs measured it, but it fits well, so hopefully fine.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:03 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Getting fitter, I will beat the Surrey Hills....
Very nice build! It's a shame the Pace's didn't fit as I think they would have looked really good, not that there is nothing wrong with the SIDs, they look good too :roll:

As for the wheel bearings, they are quite straight forward to service. I recently did mine and I am no bike building pro by any stretch of the imagination! The free hub should come off with a 10mm Allen key and the axle come out when you remove the cone (from one side only, I left the other side on and it made it simple to replace). Check for pitting in the bearings and on the running surfaces, pack it plenty of bearing grease (Castrol LM from Halfords) and reinstall. Mine runs lovely now.

I just got stuck in and had a go with mine really and it turned out fine, so I am sure you would have no trouble.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:22 am 
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Thats a nice commute scoot! I'll say 23lbs


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:01 am 
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Whatleymeister wrote:
Very nice build! It's a shame the Pace's didn't fit as I think they would have looked really good, not that there is nothing wrong with the SIDs, they look good too :roll:

As for the wheel bearings, they are quite straight forward to service. I recently did mine and I am no bike building pro by any stretch of the imagination! The free hub should come off with a 10mm Allen key and the axle come out when you remove the cone (from one side only, I left the other side on and it made it simple to replace). Check for pitting in the bearings and on the running surfaces, pack it plenty of bearing grease (Castrol LM from Halfords) and reinstall. Mine runs lovely now.

I just got stuck in and had a go with mine really and it turned out fine, so I am sure you would have no trouble.

I had a quick look last night and after removing the qr spacer on the drive side, that was about as far as I got. No Allen key as far as I could see. I. Think that these are sealed bearing variety too, not serviced a set if wheels with these before, cup and cone, no worries. I tried once, but don't like the idea of hitting things with hammers if I can help it, and I believe that is needed to get the old bearings out.

I have some spinergy wheels that need trying, I may throw these on to see how they look, aside from very stealabe with the bright yellow spokes.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 1:50 pm 
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Just updated the post with some more build pics and a final finished pic too.

Popped down to my LBS and got it weighed - 23.1 lbs. I've no idea if this is good/bad, light/heavy, so would appreciate some advice here.

I do think the stem is too short, so maybe looking for a swap for something around 110/120mm. Keep your eyes out for a wanted ad, or if you have something, let me know.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 6:03 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Getting fitter, I will beat the Surrey Hills....
Hmmm, I am not familiar with those bearings so can't really help. Mind you, Frank Spencer only had a hammer... :roll:


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