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 Post subject: Paint strip
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:12 pm 
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
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Location: York
:idea: I feel its time to go forward with the Proflex project =

Anyone got top-tips for home stripping an alu frame down & then respraying rather than sending away for a professional -more expensive job :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:51 pm 
Retro Guru
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I once used Nitro-Mors paint stripper; very quick, easy and effective. But also very messy and freakin' painful if you get splashed!

No idea if it is an 'acceptable' method but it worked and didn't leave the frames all scratched like sanding does.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:17 pm 
Mr Darcy
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ditto the nitromorse on the tinbred.
Works a treat, but for gawds sake do it outside somewhere dirty!!

You will prolly find the finish under the paint is a bit rough and will need a quick rub down anyhow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:53 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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in the us, i've used a stripper that met military specifications for being safe to use on aluminum. certain strippers can have a brittlizing effect. how much this effects a bike frame, i truely do not know, nor have i found any studies with the information. however, i do feel better using a stripper designed for aluminum.

i don't know what you will have access to, but there may be specialty strippers available to you through the automotive and aviation finishing industry. in my experience, they are not significantly more expensive...though you will probably find you have to buy a larger quantity.

id suggest using a plastic bladed spackling/putty knife with the stripper to remove heavy paint. if you have access to a set of hole saws, you can cut away sections of the knife so you get a nice rounded edge that fits your bike tubes perfectly. (if you are confused, i'll see if i can get a pic or two of mine.)

after the heavy strip, follow up with more stripper and ultra fine steel wool (it is graded 0000 in the us). this should get you down to the bare metal and a relatively even finish on the metal. remove stripper residue as directed by mfg. its not technically or physically difficulty process, but as mentioned it is messy and requires lots of ventilation.

from there you can prepare the surface and paint with the system of your choice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:50 pm 
BoTM Winner
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AUTOMOTIVE NITROMORSE paint stripper

does exactly what it says on the tin :lol:

for use on cars , okay for alluminium , used it on my proflex , twice due to F up on the first respray . :oops:
will be using it again for its powdercoat
only £4.99 from HALFORDS .

i did the proflex twice and used the last of it on the RTS swingarm

tip for you = cover about half a tube , then leave for about 1 to 2 mins then cover again in a stippling motion, and as your doing the second coat most of the paint should flake off , leaving you with just the stubborn bits .

coat these again and then use a BRILLO pad to remove whats left , and if your not going to polish , do the whole frame .

should be left with a nice clean frame :wink:

hope this helps slim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:09 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:18 am
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ditto above really. bog standard car nitromours. done 3 frames in the past year. i've found if you leave it on there for like 15mins, then apply some more comes off real easy. even yeti headtube 3layers of b'std powder coat ;)

I've had real good results through auto car sprayers for repaint. stripped & repainted for under £40 :)

gaf knows a fairly cheap respected bike repainter for slightly more if u wanna PM him :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:20 pm 
BoTM Winner
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out of curiosity which proflex is it ?

sorry jut found your earlier post , 750 right
do you still need elastomers , found someone who can do the right size .
but are a different colour , not the original yellow .
they are a modern type which are UV resistant , so should last a lot longer
let me know and i`ll give you the details
a lot cheaper than CVI too :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:18 pm 
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
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SLIM wrote:
out of curiosity which proflex is it ?

sorry jut found your earlier post , 750 right
do you still need elastomers , found someone who can do the right size .
but are a different colour , not the original yellow .
they are a modern type which are UV resistant , so should last a lot longer
let me know and i`ll give you the details
a lot cheaper than CVI too :wink:


Yeah the 750, very comfotable ride but shoddy paint so its getting a silver front end , red rear end and red flexstem (unless anyones got a REALLY cheap titanium model kickin around :?: ).
:arrow:
Got some elastomers from CVI in the end, bloody expensive though :shock: and not original (not 2 elastomers but 1 biggy), but helpful chappie did say it would fit , but thanks for the offer slim 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:02 am 
BoTM Winner
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i know !
he wanted 16.00 each
and i can get them for 38.00 for half a metre !!!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:41 am 
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
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:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:


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