Kona Suspension fork?

alpinestar222

Devout Dirtbag
Hi,
I'm Hoping someone can advise me as I'm looking to put a new/old suspension fork on my Kona and I believe the Head angle to be around 71 degrees.
As it would originally have had an Indy C fitted at something between 60mm to 70mm travel would a 100mm travel be too much? or within the limits of turning it into a hog. I'm led to believe that the rule of thumb is 1 degree per inch increase in travel? this would leave me with an effective head angle of 69.6degrees (without sag)
Is anyone running a 100mm on a Cindercone? if so I'd be keen to hear how it rides.
I will probably get the answer "Get Project 2's" I know that would be the decent and honourable thing to do but I'm running my old Cro-Mega rigid and would like the kona to be sprung.
Having just sold up my downhill bike and gear at the weekend I am now fully converted back to hardtails, largely due to seeing some of the great bikes posted on this site and possibly that it just feels great to ride them. :D
 
i always stuck to the rule that the next travel level up was ok - so 80mm would probably be alright

i've ridden a bike intended for 60mm with 100mm forks on, boat-like wasnt the word.
 
I run 80mm forks on my frame which is designed around 60mm forks- it's not as razor sharp as it was with P2s, but it's a long way from boat like...
 
Hi alpinestar222

I had the same concerns 18 months ago when I replaced my 70mm Marzocchi Z4 with a 100mm Magura Vidar on my 1999 Kona Caldera
(http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... highlight=)

Whilst the steering is a little more lax it took very little time to get used to. I contacted Kona direct and they advised that by increasing fork travel by 1 inch it slackens the head angle by 1 degree (I think I have that right!)

When looking for forks though axle to crown lengths varied wildly. E.g.

80mm Marzocchi almost equates to my 100mm Vidar.

I think axle to crown on your bike will be 420mm.

420mm = around 70mm
440mm = around 80mm
470mm = around 100mm

When my Vidar is locked out e.g. at a full 100mm, it does feel stranger than when active and sagged but this will be the case with any fork.

You could try some suspension corrected P2’s (470mm axle to crown) this would at least give you an idea of what a 100mm fork would feel like but on the cheap. :?

However, despite being cheap it can be misleading as 470mm axle to crown is roughly an uncompressed 100mm suspension fork – which unless ridden locked out you wouldn’t notice. :?

Phew! :shock: :shock: :shock:

Hope than helps!
 
Thanks a lot to all above that's very helpful :D
I'm looking at some RC36's on Ebay at the moment they look the right era and seem to fit the bill having travel of 80mm or 100mm. (I'd be glad to here any views on these)
I'm not too fussy about the rest of components being strictly the right year, I'm more interested in getting it to feel nice to ride with nice quality parts. Starting with a bare frame is the best way I suppose.
 
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