MARIN FRS ADVICE

on a manitou 2 / 3 / 4 fork
the rod that goes through the elastomers sticks out by about an inch
but on the rear " forks " , the elastomer overlaps the rod by about a half inch

so on the front the rod is partially in the plastic compression rod to start with
while on the rear it is not

so i am thinking if the rear is depressed isn`t there a chance that the rod / elastomer may shift to one side and smash the elastomers or bend the rod
when i recieved the frame one rod was slightly bent and 2 of the elastomers were damaged , but i put it down to wear and tear

do you think that this is what has happened

and should i get a longer elastomer rod made up , i dont think it will make a lot of difference to the internals to add an inch to the length of the rod ??
any help / views ??

top = front and rear
bottom = rear overlap

The rod is there to guide the elasto , so when they compress they dont loose their shape and get damaged .
If rod wasnt long enough, that is probably waht has happened . The elasto dont seat in a nice straight position and gets damaged .
If there is room , try a longer rod .

cheers chris
dont even know if this is the right way to set the rear up ?
this was how it was when i recieved it
so am assuming this is how it should be
with the small black part at the top
or even if there should be 6 elastomers on it
mind you with less than 6 it just sags in the rear and is very loose !!

manitou owners manual scans

I know its a long time after but found these on the german forum and thought it might be useful for future reference.

http://fotos.mtb-news.de/fotos/show...check=0&page=1&sortby=&sorttime=&way=&cat=all

NEVER TOO LATE MY MAN
exactly what i was looking for , perfect !!!!!!

hoping to borrow the service manuals from the RHONDDA CYCLE SHOP so i can scan them, got all the original , probably the same as these , they have the MARIN ones , but then i will have them on paper too

cheers for thinking of me mate slim

now i had time to have a good look , no good

the marin had a different set up , if you notice there is no elastomer stack or compression rod

the manitou had the elastomers under the stantions

good for the manitou owners , no good for me

thanks anyway slim

Slim,

Would it not be easier to move the stiff black plastic to the bottom of the stack on the rear, allowing the inherent stiffness of the spacer to accomodate for the shorter rod length?

This would allow the appropriate number of elastomers to prevent excessive sag and provide the sufficient stiffness to the bottom of the rod so no distortion will take place.

Seems to me, iirc, I had an old manitou fork that was configured in this fashion (was a bugger to get that plastic spacer out when all of the elastomers above it had turned to sandy crumbled rubber)

cheers,

rody

rody

sorted the problem in this thread by making a pair of longer rods ,

caused no after effects whatsoever

just looking for info on how to strip the rear " forks "

its the " LONG ALLEN " key problem i got at the moment ( cant find one )

well found one but he wont sell ( never thought you would hear that about JEZ would you )

to be fair he`s offered to lend it but i NEEEED one , to keep

shop i go to says they have all the old info and tools for the strip , but just like to have it all on hand for fiddling

slim

Slim ,

I dont know if you have access to welding equipment , but you could weld a normal size allen key to a long rod .

i have a mate who does welding and can do that for nothing , and i suppose its the easiest option ,
but that key will be mine :twisted:

do have another option of getting some 5mm hex bar cut to length and use that , not sure if it will be hardened though , if that makes a difference ??