Help identify my Hope hubs please & how to replace bearings

Hello,

As the title says, what are these hubs? They were used and I've had them for donkeys. The front is a little grumbly now and has a knock when you rock it back and forth on the brake (I have tried it with another wheel which doesn't knock so I'm certain it's the bearings not anything else).

Then the next question is what bearings do I need and how do I remove the old ones and fit the new ones? I might as well do the back at the same time as the front.

It's a Bulb hub set, from the photos. Hope didn't put model or version engravings on at that time.

Excellent hubs. You will need a Park green BB tool to remove the disc lockings:

https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/17915 ... gKyiPD_BwE

Other tools:

Circlip pliers
Drift or large flat screwdriver for knocking out bearings
Heavy soft hammer
Selection of sockets - round about 17mm
Rubber nosed pliers
CoppaSlip grease
Finishline synthetic grease

The hubs have 'knock out' bearings - you need to remove the end caps and then use a drift to knock out the old bearings - it's been a while since I had one of those in the workshop but once you have pulled off the end cap the free hub just pulls off on the rear. The end caps can be stiff, just use a set of rubber-nosed pliers and give them a good yank. When knocking out the rear, note the axle spacers in the free hub and hub body - easy to forget to put them back in.

And on all current Hope hubs you have to note the small 1mm spacer behind the freehub - that's essential for the working of the hub and is easily overlooked on dismantling since it sticks either to the bearing or the freehub and then drops onto the workshop floor somewhere. And they are expensive little things. I think this one has that spacer but can't see it on the schematic and can't remember from LONG in the past whether the Bulb has one or not. But it should be sitting just behind the freehub bearing or on the inner wheel bearing. Having a quint at the schematic, I think in the Bulb the inner bearing of the free hub is held in by a circlip and the 1mm spacer which we now have in the hubs is actually quite a long and big spacer. But you'll see when you pull it apart.

Insertion of bearings is simple, install with CoppaSlip, use either Hope tools or use sockets which fit around the outside surface of the bearing yet inside the hub housing, and drift back in with a soft hammer.

Schematic:
https://www.rushcycles.co.uk/m50b0s472p ... b-rear-Hub

The current Hope videos are excellent and the hubs have basically the same pattern/design. The bearings will have a number on the rubber seal, and that will be the replacements you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeQYfb9PvqU

Servicing the free hub is usually just a question of giving everything a good clean. Don't over grease the pawls - they get sticky if over-greased - the video makes it very clear how much to put where.

Re:

Brilliant, thanks for the id & how to guide. I'll get the old bearings out and see if they have markings on them to get a new set.

From my docs
Front
61804 2rs qty 2

Rear
61902 2rs qty 2 in qr and 3 in 12mm very
6002 2rs
6001 2rs

Re:

Thanks. Any recommendations/manufacturers to avoid or are they all much of a muchness?

Re:

I’ve got a bulb in the spares box which I can double check on but just to clarify what TMO said I’m pretty sure the bulb doesn’t have the 1 mm spcer like the newer ones it uses a larger spacer very sillier in length to the spacer between the free hub bearings.

If you look here it shows you.

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/ ... ploded.pdf

1 is 16mm and the other is 15mm so just double check.

I always use good branded ones, not much more in price. Ceramic is money down the drain for me.
Great service from these https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/?gcli ... 0gQAvD_BwE

Re:

Timoth27 - really like that the spell check turned it into 'sillier' spacer. In fact I agree, the 1mm one in the modern hubs is much more sensible than the 15/16mm sillier one in the old hubs....

re bearing - quality varies A LOT ... Hope are good since you can buy the correct full set for the hub, but if you know the numbers then Wychbearings are very good - stainless bearings are best, Enduro rating is good for BB - double seal. For Hope you pay a big premium, but I don't mind that on occasion, if that saves time when I am pressed....

try
http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/?gclid=EA ... gJl6PD_BwE

and this is interesting re the rating system for bearings:

https://cyclingindustry.news/bearing-th ... -bearings/

I would not use ceramic - a waste in this application, since the axle is supported by so many bearings, just go with high quality ss, in my view

Re:

Thanks for all the help everyone, greatly appreciated!

Can I throw my tips sixpence in

The first thing off is the freehub end cap. Try a pair of plastic tyre levers one each side to lever off first, and a good spray of gt85 first will help. Spray it right in as dirt gathers in there and that will stop it coming off easy.
But keep in mind you are pressing down against a very thin edge of the freehub, and i have seen them bent one. Probably from a screwdriver or other steel implement. Tyre levers, and I use the wider pedro ones seem to work great. Slips a bit but you get the knack of it pretty quick. In fact the effect looks like one of those wing bottle openers :?

Now just a rubber mallet to bash out the axle via the non drive side, just hold the hub in one hand and bash it with the other., that will take out the other bearing and end cap.
A lump of wood with a hole through it helps remove the bearing and cap from the axle, just not too wide so it catches the bearing edge.

Putting the big circlip into hold the bottom bearing in is easier with the hope bearing drift as it seems to do the same job.
I was fiddling with pliers not long enough and i nearly had it but couldnt get the last edge in. I pushed in the hope bulb bearing tool just to help center it
and discovered using that pushes the circlip home without the need for pliers. A revelation moment there
Probably find it either wont work again or is how the manual says it goes in