Help with pace rc35 dismantling...

Hi.

My first set of rc35’s....

Got to this point and kinda wanna dismantle the whole lot now for thorough clean and polish...
Elastomers are toast so gonna buy some new ones, most likely off flea bay!

I was guessing that where I have my spanner, these rods should screw out but although they turn they dont release? So I’ve stopped for fear of damage.

Also what’s inside the stanchions in pic as I’m guessing the forks simply work with elastomers being compressed at bottom of these fixed rods?

Any links to a decent build thread with pics or help appreciated.

Also should I renew the wiper seals as matter of course? And if so is there a special tool required or just a correct sized socket tor by using old seal to tap them in place.

Thanks
Andy

Try this:

https://mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PD ... C35_96.pdf

If the RC35's are anything like my RC36 Pro Class forks, I think there might be a small hole on each fork leg stanchion. If so, try inserting a small Allen key or something similar to lock the suspension rod (the part you have your spanner on in the picture) in place whilst you undo it with your spanner. On the RC36's I've found that locking this rod in place is a bit hit and miss but with a little perseverance, it works.

Can't help you with the seals because I don't know that much about this particular fork but whilst you have the fork apart, I think it would be wise to change the seals. I'm sure Pace still sell them. If not, with a quick Google search you'll find someone that does.

Re:

pm justbackdated of you need any pace help. He runs fork English and services all old pace forks. Pace don't seem to have much available for old forks anymore.

It would be silly not to refresh as much as you can while you have them apart.

Someone on here has made mcus for pace forks, I think they are also selling on ebay.

A while ago I had a few sets of rc35s. I built one up with a combination of springs and elastomers which worked well. Damping was OK as the elastomers played their part alongside the springs. Not saying it was better than a full elastomer stack, but didn't notice any real difference.

Re:

Thanks ishaw.

Yeah, I’ve PM’d justbackdated so will await his reply.

Thank you

Re:

Hello, and stop what you are doing!

The core rods are held to the base caps of the stanchions by an (Loctited) alloy bolt from within the stanchions and are best left fitted as there is no benefit in removing them. The alloy base caps are bonded into the stanchions and do not (should not) come out. If the rods are loose you need to remove the top caps of the stanchions (glued in) and use a very long 6mm Allen key to hold the bolt.

The stanchions are empty and again do not need any further stripping other than to achieve the above.

Replace the wiper seals if they are the old single lip type, they didn't work! The newer double lip 'winter seals' are much better, although a bit expensive. Single lip seals suck fine crap into the fork and were a waste of space which is why Pace introduced the 'winter seals' and threw away the singles. Pull the old ones out with pliers, fit new ones with fingers.

Revove & check the top of the stanchions for any creasing/cracking indicating overtightened crown bolts. Refit stanchions into sockets with Loctite 638, top cap flush with outer crown edge & tighten to 5Nm.

Hope that helps

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Brilliant! Glad I didn’t go ahead and try unscrewing they core rods then!

Great advice and PM’d...

Thanks

Sorry to jump on this thread but trying to get hold of justbackdated. Hi Tim As a newbie I’m unable to pm you directly so hope it’s ok to try through this route. I have a pair of RC36 evo forks and would like to purchase a rebuild kit from you if possible. Please let me know the best way to get hold of you.

Thanks

Lee

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You could also try user name : johndeverill

He sorted mine for me in the end and has spares.

Hope this helps.

Andy

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Hi Lee,
Email sent, let me know what you need.
Cheers