Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:39 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:57 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:28 pm
Posts: 78
I am quite new here some I am always looking to learn.
Could anyone please give me their best tips when rebuilding a recently painted frame.
I am in the process of refurbishing a NTI Rock Lobster .
So prior to painting I have fitted the complete drive train and got it working (taking note of where the front derailleur fits.).I have now taken it all off and the frame has been sent for grit blasting I would of had it powder coated but it had 2 tiny dings in the frame so painting was the best option.
So has anyone got good advise about fitting it back up without doing any damage to the paintwork, any protection you put on the to stop accidents when fitting up the frame and also things like adjusting the front derailleur which could cause damage
Cheers in advance.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 10:11 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 9573
Location: New Forest, UK
Shake and rotate the frame to remove blasting residue from inside frame tubes. Hearing it rattle about is maddening.
Take the frame to an LBS and get the bottom bracket threads chased out to clear any blasting residue from the threads.

Get the seatpost in (no grease) and hold the frame in a workstand by the post.

Tap out all threads in the frame.

Then rebuild. Clearly wrapping the frame in old cloths to prevent scratching is a good idea.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 12:53 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
User avatar

Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:03 am
Posts: 19059
Location: Sunny Glasgow
Thet pretty much sums it up. Though if you look and see if theres a bike charity operating near you they sometimes have programs about fixing your own bikes and this is just the job to help you.

Local week bikes shops arent available out on a trail, so being proficient to some degree in how it all goes together is extremely helpful, and cost effective.

I've often rolled the eyes at seeing a bike in the mechanics for a simple puncture or to tighten up something. :shock:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 11:39 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider

Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 10:05 pm
Posts: 8966
Location: Scotland
Nowadays it's common to apply clear Helitape (or similar) to the frame to protect it in high wear areas e.g.. around the headtube where cables might rub, on the chainstay (if not using a dedicated chainstay protector) etc. You might also put it on the top/down tube where cables might rub agsinst it, or even the underside of the down tube to protect against stone chips.

Wait a while until the paint is fully cured/hardened before building the frame up though.

With the Chainset fitted you can adjust the high/low stop limit screws on the front mech.

Make sure you're happy with the front mech position (e.g. does it clear the teeth on the big chainring?) Before properly tightening up the band clamp, it can sometimes damage the paint, and if you need to move the front mech position later you may expose the damaged area if paint.

Enjoy, take your time, and route the cables as best you can.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:55 am 
rider | rBoTM Winner
rider | rBoTM Winner
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:42 pm
Posts: 2646
Location: VCC Member 5558 East Riding of Yorkshire
Tip for the front mech clamp:
Remove a few inches of the shiny backing you get from double sided tape and wrap it around the tube when you first clamp it together if you aren’t confidant in getting it right first time. Test the mech, measure it’s relative position, then loosen and remove the protective shim.
Don’t be tempted to use masking tape or anything with adhesive as this is likely to have an effect on the fresh paint.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 10:20 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 586
I would say wait a week at least to let the paint cure properly.

While I was building my wheels and bits during that week after lacquering my frame, I would sniff the frame and could still smell paint until about 7 to 8 days after.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 1:43 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 2:09 pm
Posts: 574
If you are able to leave the frame for a few extra weeks just to make sure the paint can properly harden, that's always a plus. Even if it is dry, there is always an element of softness to fresh paint. Ideally 2-3 weeks in a warm room should do it.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: konacarl and 31 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group