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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 9:56 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:03 am
Posts: 296
I didn't say it first.

"The alternative is bare aluminum. I do wonder if the paint weighs more than the frame!"

Carry on trollin, I'm shutting down :facepalm:


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:06 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:13 pm
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Location: Royal Forest of Dean (Still looking for the Bear !)
fettler wrote:
I didn't say it first.

"The alternative is bare aluminum. I do wonder if the paint weighs more than the frame!"

Carry on trollin, I'm shutting down :facepalm:



Hey buddy - I’m not trolling it was just a remark about the frame having already been at least once round the block - so a polished finish may not be possible.

Apologies if you took offence to an equally innocuous comment - to the one you were making. If you look at what I wrote I even started/ framed my observation with an apology for making a negative statement :|


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:15 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Woking
Vapour / bead blast matt (matte? Matthew?) finish? 8) if you don’t like it, you have a nice key for the paint :lol: WD Pro put decals on, then vapour blasted, leaving polished metal underneath which was shown when he peeled them off. So, so cool and saves the weight of decals too 8)

I think paint adds a fair amount... I checked once, 80g comes to mind, that could be bobbins though.

SP


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:26 pm 
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fettler wrote:
I'm all for originality but if weight is a concern I'd leave it bare & polished. No such thing as a light weight tin of paint!


Even Extralite point out the lightweight are based on their anodized frames...so yes polished would be the weight saver.
I need to see the condition of the frame underneath the 1mm of green paint. I really am still in two minds about this.
I read up about anodizing on one site and they observe that without a colour (bare/clear), the welds often come out much darker. You don't know until it is done, which is not ideal really.
I might strip an area to see how the aluminum looks.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:28 pm 
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My trek was over 100g less without paint, but I honestly can't remember exactly what the difference was.

If you're gonna weight-weenie it, I reckon a blasted finish would look pretty sweet TBH. If not, it's gotta be the yellow.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 12:12 am 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Just a couple of words based on the experience of my own fails... I really wouldn’t recommend anodising a tubular frame... it’s not impossible, but it hides nothing... and will look it’s best when the frame is immaculate...
If it’s a weight weenie you want I like MTS’s vapour blast over decal masks idea, but I’d vote for the yellow now you have the proper code and access to original graphics.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 12:20 am 
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Alu frames look great blasted but it wouldn't suit retro frame like this imo. That company linked above look like they'd do a good job and they clear coat over decals! Not many powdercoaters do that.


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