1995-96 Judy XC rebuild problem...

jperegrine

Retro Newbie
New member here. Thank you all for this resource. Everyone here seems very friendly and helpful.

I’m halfway through the rebuild of a ’96 Trek Y-22 and have reached an impasse with the fork. Its a Rock Shox Judy XC. Upon disassembling the fork I was presented with the common ‘crumbling elastomers’. I’ve ordered and received the SuspensionForkParts.net refresh kit for this fork. I’ve got it as far as screwing in the top caps but here is where I am stumped: The left stack is too long. I am unable/unwilling to push the elastomer stack down as hard as is necessary to engage them for fear of stripping the plastic threads.

Looking toward the front of the bike the dampener is inserted in the bottom on the left upper tube. (There is a +/- adjust notation on that side of the fork indicating that is the correct side.) In that upper tube assembly, about halfway, is an immovable metal ‘stop’ that is seemingly welded into it. The piston of the dampener fits through the hole in the stop. Above the stop, below the elastomer stack, I’ve inserted the tan colored beveled hard plastic piece that pushes on the stack. I insert the stack and it sticks out way to far to be able to screw it in. The tube on other side of the fork, the right side, has to metal stop halfway into the it, so the elastomer stack slides right in to the correct depth.

The elastomer stacks are both approximately 8”/20cm. I was not able to measure the old elastomer stacks as I had to literally pour the pieces out. The few elastomer pieces that were complete do seem to be the same length as the replacements from the refresh kit. My inclination is that the stacks need to be different lengths but during my research that is never mentioned.

Does anyone have an insight to what is going on? I'm pretty sure I've messed somewhere along the way.
 

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Re:

Ive rebuilt loads of these forks and have never come across one with that metal insert or stop as you put it. The lower leg bolt is what prevents the damper from moving inside the stanchion, along with the circlip.and elastomer stack. Looks to me like something is stuck in there.

I'd await others to confirm, but it doesn't look right to me.
 
Re:

Thank you for your reply! I've only gently used a wooden dowel to see how the metal obstruction is attached, i.e. welded or just wedged in there.
 
Re:

I recently built up a 1997 Judy SL, so I have some knowledge. The 97 & up use single elastomer sticks rather than the multiple pucks.
I noticed that you are missing the upper shaft guide #20, (see Rock Shox parts catalog in archives), unless it is still stuck in the tube. On my 97, the guide was hard black plastic with an oring around the outside. I don't know if they were metal in 96.
I guess that it is possible that yours is stuck in the tube?
I guess in theory, someone could install a plate to make up for collapsed elastomers.
As for welding, any signs of heat damage to the exterior of the tubes?
Maybe if someone epoxied a plate, any excess residue?
For all the research I did, this is abnormal.
Let us know what happens next!
 
Re:

I think you could be on to something. There is usually a round seal cap on top of the damper, and these were metal on later models. Looking more closely at the pics, you can just about see where the o-rings should go in the centre.

This needs tapping out, will it be salvageable though?
 
Re:

Spot on! Got some help with this. After soaking the tube and obstruction with a spray meant for freeing rusty nuts and bolts the mechanic hammered it out. It was exactly the piece you thought it was, part #20, and its in good shape! Will post a picture when the bike is done. Thanks!
 

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Question, I have a set of the Rock Shox Judy XC on Kona Hahanna. They appear to be rather "sad". Before I start taking them apart is there somewhere in the UK to get the elastomer stack? My searches throw up USA.
 
Re:

take them apart first, see how bad /good they are.
no point worrying about it if the stanchions are shot.

2 bolts at bottom part way out, tap/hit/wack the bastard screws with a hammer and also unscrew the top caps then they're pretty much apart.
 
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