Help with risse rear shock transplant

ishaw

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It appears at long last I may finally have found a risse shock for my RTS team. It is the standard version, but I have a cunning plan that I need some help with.

I bought a risse astro a while back that was a non-rts version, and my plan was originally to convert it to rts either via risse or other means. It works, but the shaft I'd heavily scored so no use.

I am hoping that I can use the can and damping assembly with the newly acquired but yet to arrive genesis, but have no idea how to set about this and can't find any info online about servicing a risse shock. I contacted risse ages ago about buying a new assembly but got no response.

Has anyone got any knowledge, experience or know where I can find details on how to take apart a Russell shock, so I can see if my plan is viable?

Kind of excited and keen to get the knowledge before the shock arrives so I can be ready and able to crack on (or not, depending on what I learn).
 
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Thanks. I've found a couple of videos which help, but nothing I've found has details on what to do with the rebound damping so a little stumped.
 
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If the shock piston diameter is the same, it should be possible.
Going back into the mists of my mind, on the shocks on the 1994/5 Yeti AS models, once the piston is out, you can see the end of the valve body. IIRC I made up a brass tool, to hold in the vice, that had pins that located into the valve body. Then with a Boa rubber strap wrench, the shock shaft could be unscrewed off the valve body.

Oh, first you have to take the washer shim stack off. I think.. IIRC...
 
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Cheers. What you've said matches the video I found, so your memory serves you well.

Just need info on oil and rebound servicing.

I found a video on removing and refitting the rebound dials, o-rings etc, but nothing about rebuilding the complete shock afterwards.
 
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5w IIRC, filled to the very top.
Fill the can, and let it all spill over when you put the damper in.
Best of luck!
 
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Cheers. I've only ever played with coil oil rear shocks so filling them up makes sense. Surely if I fill the air can with oil, there will be no room for air?
 
As I say, I'm going from memory a bit.... been a long time.
Consider also I'm only talking about the stock Risse on a Yeti, but I'm pretty sure that the architecture is common. So I'm thinking in my mind about one of these (grabs a random picture from the net):
http://www.yetifan.com/Your_YETI/Road_P ... t121ws.jpg

So if you have that shock eyelet end up (even though that part isn't installed yet).
You have the main shock "can" in a tray. You fill this with oil so it overflows. The valve body in the "upper" half is inserted so the oil overflows, so there is no air lock.

The air is inside the top part, with the actual shock travelling surface and the schrader valve.
IIRC there may be a shuttling piston that keeps the air and oil chamber separate (instead of a modern bladder). Or was there some sort of seal in the top of the piston assembly? I really can't remember. If there is, you need to attach a pump to the valve to make sure you blow it out, and change the O-rings on EVERYTHING.

Again, IIRC, I think the main shock seal is a square section o-ring. If this goes I think your shock will lose oil. I think there is an o-ring too in the eyelet end, that keeps the air in. You can unscrew the eyelet from the shaft too, to replace this.

All struggling from an ageing memory, with no parts in my hand to help me!
 
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