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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:41 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:15 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Sussex, UK and Andorra
I’ve ordered a 10x1x146 Wheels Manufacturing axle, plus a 5 Mm axle spacer. However, the guys I have ordered this from actually advise using a 1mm spacer on the drive side, and 4mm on the non-drive side. What would be the reason for this, to manage dish?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:04 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
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Location: Yorkshire, England
Probably, you'll need to redish anyway.

A 1mm spacer does of course move the chainline at the rear a but, but nowt to worry about.

I've just come to this thread and I probably have a box with suntour parts in.
Certainly have some 'cones' for the sealed bearings.
They are not like Hope etc where you bash them in, but they are adjustable, so you have to take into consideration the clamping as you would normal cup/cone.

What freehub does it take ? 7sp normal?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:33 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:15 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Sussex, UK and Andorra
Hopefully won't need any new bits other than the spacers/ axle as they are new old stock - and not built yet! Yep, they are non-MD 7s.

But you kind of made a point that I haven't explained well - I guess my real question is, that considering that they are not yet built, what is the best way of respacing?

Presumably hub manufacturers simply do this themselves - as it would not make sense to make lots of versions of hub bodies, therefore they must respace them in factory?

You don't happen to have any front mechs in your parts bin by any chance? 28.6 is what I need :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:41 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Yorkshire, England
Top pull or bottom pull, lol
Probably not :-(

I don't know on the spacing as I don't have examples of 130mm to check.
But this is Suntour, they made 4 different freehubs for 4 different cassettes, so it's anyone's guess.

Normally they would keep the small cog in the same place as everything gears is relative to the dropout. It's all part of 'the spec'.
So nor.ally I would think they add 5mm spacer, but being Suntour small and a bit anal, it may well have used the extra 5mm for a wider dish setup.

Shimano would go the cheap n simple route... Probably why they are still around ;-).

I'll have look which hubs I have (had a thought I may have a 130 on a wheel set)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:28 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:46 pm
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If it's for a steel frame, you could always get the back end cold set to 130mm. You could even do it yourself if you're careful.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:41 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:15 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Sussex, UK and Andorra
I’ve swapped to a 136 axle and added a 5mm spacer on the non-drive - will hopefully start building the wheels next weekend!

No point trying to mess around with. 30 year old frame and resetting the back end - I wouldn’t want to put that type of stress through it when an axle change does the same job for a tenner...


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