solved - Marzocchi Bomber Z2 damper + 1/31 added tooltip

Re:

It seems I've been a bit too careful. All I needed to do was pulling the spring down a bit to take the pressure from the 18 mm nut. I could unscrew the nut by hand. So I did. Under the 18 mm nut is a smaller red coloured nut with which you can lock the rod. Strange thing is that if you leave space to be able to reach it with a small wrench the 18 mm nut doesn't compress the spring at all and even leaves a bit of space between the white plastic ring and the spring. Maybe I should consider that as a margin for sag.

As you can see in the pics one of the former owners placed a small rubber hose around the rod. Some people just have strange ideas....
Well, it's fixed now, and I'm glad to be able to rebuild the forks.

Thanks for thinking with me :cool:
 

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Re:

Marzocchi Bomber tooltip :idea:
Taking out the dustseals and oilseals out of a Bomber can be a pain.
A large srewdriver can help but is not ideal.
The right tool for the job is a large steel tirelifter.
I've bought these secondhand years ago and they're ideal.

If you're looking for these make sure that:
- they're steel ones
- longer is better (for momentum)
- the ends are rounded
- the ends are bent

If you're taking out the oilseals make sure there's a piece of cloth between the tool and the forks.
Before putting in new oilseals you can smoothen the contact surface (40 mm diameter) with some steelwool.
 

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Re:

Large flat screwdrivers work really well for me. Insulation tape around the area of the seal pivot point protects it too.
 
I've used the large flat screwdriver with success as well. Tape of fabric wrapped around the contact point.

I've also had to heat up the oil seals before to get them to move. Hot water & a brief time with a heat gun helped to get things moving.

Nice work & congratulations on your success!

**IF you ever get oil coming out the top of the rebound adjuster, that little O-ring needs to be replaced or moved into it's correct location. Sometimes the preload knob can get to far away from the adjuster portion above it and let the o ring float around. See #10
 

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