Hard maths! Pace RC200, Mavic X517 rims and Hope hubs

I'm about to embark on some wheel building for my Pace. Currently its rear wheel consists of a Mavic X517 rim, Deore XT M737 Parallax hub, and some fairly knackered spokes of indeterminate length.

I am to replace the hub with a Hope Ti Glide, and spokes with some decent DT or Spain double butted numbers.

Now, normally I'd just crunch these through an online spoke length calculator (like Leonard.io). However, as the Pace has an asymmetric rear, this will give me the wrong numbers.

Before I get my calculator out and try and remember my GCSE trigonometry, has anyone built X517s and Hope hubs for an RC200 before? Must be a fairly common combo, I'd have thought.

TIA.

Edit: replaced everywhere my iPad 'autocorrected' Mavic to Magic!
 
Re: Pace RC200, Magic X517 rims and Hope hubs

You could always add a mm to the driveside spokes, but in my experience re-dishing a good, handbuilt rear wheel doesn't cause any issues.
I have a custom steel frame with an assymetric rear end I've swapped wheels in & out of.
 
Re: Pace RC200, Magic X517 rims and Hope hubs

For those interested, here are the deets from the F6 manual:

The rear triangle is designed to take a standard 135mm overlocknut-width hub.

When building a rear wheel for our chassis, the asymmetrical rear triangle has to be taken into account.

The wheel should be built so that the centreline of the rim is 66mm from the inside face of the left-hand dropout (or hub overlocknut/spacer) and 69mm from the right-hand dropout (or hub overlocknut/spacer).

The wheel builder will find it easier if he has the chassis to hand for wheel centring. It is essential that wheels are precisely built to this dimension otherwise your rear wheel will be out of alignment with the centreline of the machine.
I'm sure I can do the maths (math for those reading in America), but am also sure I could make a stupid mistake. Good spokes ain't cheap!
 
You should be able to use any of the normal spoke calculators.

Since the standard hub centre would be 67.5mm from the hub end (135/2), just tweak the 'centre to flange' dimension as follows:
Add 1.5mm to the hub's RH Centre to flange dimension, and subtract 1.5mm from the hub's LH Centre to Flange dimension ion the spoke calculator.
That'll get you very close to the exact lengths. Then you'll need to set the dish exactly using the frame as Pace suggest, but of course flipping the rear wheel won't work since it's asymmetric.

IMHO 1.5mm of asymmetry in the rear wheel was a whole load of ball-ache for very questionable gains if any.
10mm+ may be worth it (Like Manitou, Cleland and Highpath), but it was probably just a fault in their framebuilding jig, or the non-matching chainstay bends...

All the best,
 
danson67":51hrlmv3 said:
IMHO 1.5mm of asymmetry in the rear wheel was a whole load of ball-ache for very questionable gains.
10mm+ may be worth it (Like Manitou, Cleland and Highpath), but it was probably just a fault in their framebuilding jig, or the non-matching chainstay bends...
,

I've never had the rear wheel on my Pace's dished to the "correct spec " and tbh I can't notice any negative or positive effect at all.
Perhaps I'll re-dish it one day, but I'm in no rush.
 
all 4 of mine have standard dish, no issues at all and tbh look spot on

just awaiting ben to sell me his................
 
Back
Top